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The No Man’s Wilderness : White Lake Loop in Altai Mountains.

3FULGEAR — Tue, 11 Mar 2025 09:34:38 +0000

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Adventure

Team member: Liu Yu, Zi Long, Jun Dao, Kuai Le, Cha Ye

Time: October 2016

Length: 250km 14 days

Location: Altai Mountains

Difficulty: 8.5/10

Among China’s most challenging trekking routes, Langta, Xiate, HuanBogeda, and Aotai are well-known for their extreme difficulty. Some organizations rate them as nearly top-tier in terms of challenge. Beyond these, there are other expedition-level routes like Keriya, the Yarlung Tsangpo Grand Canyon, and various crossings in the Changtang region. These routes are harder to classify due to unpredictable weather, undeveloped trails, and uncontrollable risks. After this expedition, it’s clear that the White Lake Loop in the Altai Mountains belongs to the latter category.

This journey lasted 14 days, 250 kilometers, with 4 of those days packrafting. This trip is the first documented expedition that someone has completed this full White lake Loop using packraft. We are the second team to complete the White Lake loop.

1. First Encounter with White Lake

I first stumbled upon this route while casually browsing Google Earth, searching for unknown trails. White Lake is not far from Kanas Lake, separated by a 50-kilometer valley that looked intriguing. Later, I discovered that a man named “Liuxing2008” in BBS had already traversed it, followed by the well-known incident of another hiker named “GongBing” died in this area, He was the first person to attempt to explore this circuit with a packraft, but sadly he didn’t make it out alive.. In 2015, a team led by “Jumer” successfully completed the crossing with his packraft, But at the end of the day, he chose to ask for help from the ranger station at the confluence of the White Lake and the Kanas River. Riding out on horseback round the corner. In a sense, not completing the route.

What sets White Lake apart is its diversity: stunning landscapes, varied terrain, rich plant and animals, and the integration of multiple outdoor activities. Looking back, a complete White Lake expedition requires hiking, basic glacier travel skills (we didn’t plan to climb glaciers, so we didn’t bring mountaineering tools—a regret), and some packrafting skills. Thus, our White Lake journey wasn’t a typical trekking expedition but rather a blend of hiking and packrafting, a new sport originating from Alaska that involves carrying inflatable rafts for river crossings.

The White Lake Loop consists of the following sections (not in chronological order):

Type	Route (Estimated Distance)	Difficulty
Established Hiking Trail	Tübek – Kanas (25 km); Jiadengyu – Hemu (30 km)	Easy
Unmarked Paths	Hemu – 2600 Ice Lake Pass – East White Lake (100-120 km)	Middle to Hard
Off Trail	Southwest White Lake – Middle Kanas River Valley (30 km) – Lake Head (25 km)	Hellish
River	White Lake; Lower Kanas River (Class 1-2) – Kanas Lake (50 km)	Dangerous

Note: If you choose not to raft the middle section of the Kanas River, you can attempt to hike out off trail, making it extremely challenging—this feedback comes from our three teammates who didn’t raft.

From the table above, it’s clear that White Lake is not a hike trail. “Liuxing2008”, in his travelogue, recalled the route as perilous and advised against attempting it. Now, having completed it, I fully understand his warning. After emerging from the wilderness, locals were shocked to hear about our journey. Even to them, that area is a forbidden zone, home to wolves and brown bears, with many hunters and villagers having gone missing there in the past.

2. Preparations

Since this trip involved packrafting, our base weight increased significantly, making lightweight gear essential. Due to personal reasons, my preparation was rushed—I only had one day to pack. My main food supply was Shanzhichu, something like Mountain House, a freeze-dried meal brand, and other snacks were hastily bought from Walmart. My basic gear was similar to what I used on the Aotai trek earlier in the year. The main differences were leaving behind my rain jacket and bivy sack, adding extra warm clothing like down pants and light fleece. I boldly opted for Brooks trail-running shoes, bringing only one pair of Smartwool socks and alternating them with Dexshell waterproof socks. For fuel, I stuck with alcohol, increasing the quantity to 500 ml. Thanks to abundant natural fuel sources, I had about 80 ml left by the end.

For packrafting, I used Jumper’s new mini backpack frame paired with Sea to Summit dry bags, ensuring 100% waterproofing. My raft was the Klymit LWD, weighing only 990 grams, and my paddle was a OYMG carbon fiber one, totaling 440 grams. However, during the river section, I switched to a teammate’s abandoned PP paddle. For rafting gear, I only brought a Stohlquist dry top and a buoyancy vest, which proved insufficient—my lower body froze. Lesson learned: always bring your best drysuit and PFD, no matter the weight.

In any expedition, you must have contingency plans for potential risks—it’s like not leaving a blank answer on an exam. Bears were a major risk on this trip. We bought bear spray, carried by my team mate“Zilong”, while I brought a small 50 ml canister, which I lost midway.

My total pack weight, including 11 days of food, was around 16 kg. There were two resupply points: Hemu and Tübek, so I didn’t need to carry 13 days’ worth. If you’re a skilled angler, you could also consider fishing for food.

Our team consisted of five people initially, but some dropped out due to personal reasons. In hindsight, those who dropped out were lucky.

3. 4,000 Kilometers to White Lake

We flew from Jinan to Urumqi, picked up the bear spray (which couldn’t pass any security checks in Xinjiang), and hired a private car to Kanas. We arrived at Jiadengyu in the middle of the night and quickly found a yurt for about 50 yuan per person.

The 30 km hike from Jiadengyu to Hemu was good trail, so we chose to walk it in one day. My feet were killing me, and the scenery was just average.

Hemu was bustling with tourists, and accommodation was expensive. To find a cheaper place, we hike 2 km into Hemu and found a Kazakh family who charged 50 yuan per person, complete with a warm stove.

The next day, we crossed a newly built wooden bridge in Hemu and headed north. The scenery was much better than in Hemu, with yellowing leaves and a serene, untouched atmosphere.

We passed several Tuvan cabins, mostly inhabited by elderly people, as the younger generation had moved away from the mountains. The Tuva people, who are of Mongolian descent, depend on hunting for their livelihood and use homemade horsehide skis to go out into the forest in the winter in search of food.

Compared to Hemu, the people here were much more genuine. We encountered a family building a small cabin. Though they didn’t speak Mandarin, they warmly invited us into their home, treating us to naan bread, small potatoes, milk tea, and wild blueberry jam. Seeing their humble lifestyle, we offered money, but the elderly woman didn’t even look at the amount, simply placing it beside the food. As we left, she noticed Zilong loved the potatoes and gestured for him to take some, but we declined, not wanting to take from their limited resources.

As we left the sparse Tuvan village, the trail became less visible, filled with fallen trees, bushes, and swamps. It felt like someone had deliberately blocked the path, but it was just nature. Every few kilometers, we’d find a campsite, likely used by locals for hunting or fishing.

On the third day, I felt unwell, likely due to food poisoning from drinking unfiltered, only boiled stream water the night before. The water probably came from a nearby swamp, containing excessive organic matter. I was weak and had to stop to rest after only 3 km, which felt like 30 km. That night, I drank Zilong’s rice soup, vitamin C water, and Kuaile’s honey, along with antibiotics and fever reducers. After a night’s rest, I could walk again, but it was still agonizing. I discovered that whenever my stomach hurt, shitting would buy me 1-2 hours of relief. Over four days, I finished all the antibiotics, and my stomach slowly recovered. From then on, I only drank filtered and boiled water, and had no further issues.

The campsites along this section were well-maintained, with flat ground, fire pits, and chopped firewood, likely used by locals. However, we had to be careful with fire, ensuring it was completely extinguished and cool to the touch. In some areas, the thick layer of pine needles and decomposing soil was highly flammable, and a small mistake could lead to a massive fire—and a lifetime in prison.

After entering the Sumu River Valley, we used our packrafts to cross the river from the west bank to the east bank at approximately 48°45.8 N, 87°33.5 E. We crossed to bypass a 500-meter-high slope about 6 km ahead, which would allow us to avoid a high-drop section of the Sumu River. Before the slope, we passed a burned slope where the trees had been killed by a wildfire.

After crossing the slope, the turbulent Sumu River became calm, perfect for fishing—though we didn’t have the right tool. We used the packrafts to cross again, then hiked for two hours to a clearing in the forest to camp. If you have time, I recommend hiking another two hours to an ancient tree, which makes for a great campsite and even offers pine nuts.

Up to the 2600 Ice Lake Pass, the trail was discernible, and we could replenish water. We even picked wild blueberries along the way. The Ice Lake was small but beautiful, its blue waters contrasting with the sky. As we descended past the lake, the trees disappeared, leaving only a desolate plateau. The mountains weren’t steep, but their grandeur was amplified by the shadows cast by the clouds. For a moment, we were all mesmerized. A small east-west trail led from Mongolia to the glaciers beneath the western snow-capped mountains—who knows what lies beyond.

On the descent, we veered off course, trudging through swamps, boulder fields, and dense bushes taller than a person. It was utterly exhausting. After crossing the river, it was already dark, and finding the trail was difficult. We struggled for four hours before finding an abandoned shelter that had existed for at least a decade. We squeezed five people inside for the night, staying relatively warm.

The trail to White Lake was tough, likely due to its lack of visitors. Along the way, we found a patch of wild boar hair and a small piece of skin—likely the remains of a large predator’s meal.

About 7 km west of the abandoned shelter, we reached the eastern inlet of White Lake by noon. There was another hunter’s shelter, newer and more comfortable, with a stone stove that seemed well-used. We camped here, Zilong and I decided to sleep inside the shelter, waiting to cross White Lake the next day. In the afternoon, we washed our clothes and warmed ourselves by the fire, enjoying a sense of normalcy.

We tried fishing in White Lake but caught nothing. The water was a murky white, devoid of life, almost as if it were toxic. However, locals claim the lake is teeming with fish—so much so that a horse handler wanted to buy our raft for fishing. That night was the most comfortable of the entire trip, with the shelter’s temperature reaching 20°C while it snowed lightly outside.

4. Into the Dark Forest

For many previous teams, White Lake was a major obstacle, a stumbling block in the middle of the loop. The steep slopes on either side made it impassable. With packrafts, however, crossing White Lake became a leisurely activity. Zilong and I used the Klymit LWD, while Jun Dao, Kuaile, and Chaye used air force life rafts. Both types of boats worked for crossing White Lake, though the air force rafts were deeper and prone to taking on water.

Paddling on calm water was peaceful but eventually boring due to the slow speed. Fortunately, the weather improved, and the distant mountains gradually came into view. After about three hours, we crossed White Lake and landed on the southwest shore.

Shortly after landing, we stumbled upon fresh bear tracks—apparently, bears like to travel in groups. It was genuinely frightening.

Next, we followed the east bank of the Kanas River into the primeval forest. There was no trail after landing; we had to climb over a hill for a few kilometers, easily losing our way. We then followed slippery riverbanks, occasionally entering boulder fields—utterly frustrating. Thankfully, our packs were light; I can’t imagine doing this with a heavy load. As night fell, we hastily found a “flat” spot to camp. The next morning, a fire patrol helicopter flew overhead, later learning it was searching for missing hikers.

We put a lot of energy into putting out the campfire, the leaves of the pine trees piled up several metres high and we ignited the rotting material underneath, so much so that we spent an hour constantly fetching water from the river to get the campfire to stop smouldering, we used hundreds of kilos of water.

I could use the worst words to describe the east bank of Kanas River—there were too many issues to list. This experience solidified my decision to raft, while Jun Dao, Kuaile, and Chaye chose hike out. Chaye later recalled that hike as hellish, with not only difficult terrain but also bear scat and tracks everywhere, a mental and physical ordeal.

A Peculiar Tree: ‘Welcome to Hell.’

About halfway through the Kanas River Valley (around 49°0.2 N, 87°20.58 E), the river’s flow slowed, and the channel widened. At an elevation of about 1,400 meters, with a 100-meter drop to Kanas Lake, Zilong and I decided to raft out after lunch, leaving the others with bear spray and two packs of Shanzhichu meals.

The first two hours of rafting were recorded on video, but things didn’t go smoothly. Shortly after starting, a cold rain began, and two hours later, we hit a rapid. While scouting the rapid, I accidentally punctured my boat on a sharp rock, forcing us to stop for repairs. Zilong and I showed signs of hypothermia, so we quickly set up camp, ate the last of our chocolate, lit a fire, changed into dry pants, and recovered. The boat was patched, but the rain returned, so we stayed in the tent with a small fire, eating pine nuts and staying warm.

The next morning, Jun Dao and the others spotted our camp from the opposite bank. After confirming everyone was safe, Zilong tossed them two more packs of food, as they were running low on food due to the strenuous hike. We hiked around the rapid and continued rafting. Unfortunately, our GoPro had died by then, and with the lack of sunlight, all our electronics were running low. This section of the river was the most scenic, the highlight of the trip, but sadly, we have no footage.

Afterword: On this section of the trail, a huge disagreement arose between us about whether to walk or raft. The reason for this was that each person had a different perception of the difficulty and risk of the route.

Disagreements, if handled well, will be a huge encouragement to the morale of the team, otherwise they will destroy the team.

5. Breaking Out of the Wilderness

The final day of rafting was blessed with good weather—sunny and not too cold, even a bit warm. As we approached Kanas Lake, the river slowed and split into multiple channels. We followed the largest flow but encountered two logjams blocking the way, forcing us to disembark and hike around. You had to plan your exit early; getting stuck on a logjam would’ve been awkward. The water level wasn’t high this season, but the rapids could still reach Class 2-3, so we had to stay alert.

It took about two hours to reach Kanas Lake. Exiting the river, we found ourselves on a small tributary, which was puzzling. Looking east, the main channel’s turbulent waters collided with the lake, creating massive waves.

After landing on Kanas Lake, we dried our gear and tried to find a trail but failed. We continued paddling until evening, then camped onshore. I slept soundly but was woken by Zilong in late night. He asked nervously if I’d heard something bumping the tent. I said no and went back to sleep. In the morning, he explained he’d had a nightmare about a bear attacking the tent and tried to scare it off by mimicking animal growls.

The next morning, we paddled further and found a clearing with construction materials, likely a temporary port used by locals for transporting goods. Walking inland, we discovered a garbage dump, indicating a nearby village. Sure enough, we soon found the village, an unexpected but welcome surprise.

The village, called Tubek, is a stop on the well-known “Kanas Grand Loop Trail” and remains relatively untouched by modernity. We stayed at a guesthouse run by a Kazakh woman married to a Tuvan man. Their photo was on the sign, and they seemed very loving. That night, we asked the hostess to prepare 5 pounds of lamb and shared a meal with Pan, a solo hiker we met in the village. They craved the local beer, but I avoided it due to a bad past experience and opted for alcohol instead. Pan had worked at The North Face and knew a lot about outdoor gear, so we hit it off. That night, we contacted Jun Dao and learned they’d just emerged from the wilderness, finally putting our minds at ease.

The next morning, we were woken early by another team’s leader insisting on an 8 AM departure (6 AM local time, before sunrise). It was freezing, and some team members grumbled. Around 10 AM, the three of us set off on a wide horse trail, enjoying the ease of the path. Without lunch, we headed straight to the Tielishagan Ranger Station for a meal. The young ranger made the best “Shou Zhua Fan” (Lamb and vegetables rice) I’ve ever had. An older ranger, who’d worked there for eight years, enthusiastically advised us on how to bypass the Kanas ticket checkpoint.

As we neared the checkpoint, Pan decided to visit the Fish Watching Pavilion, and we parted ways. We then called the Kanas hotel owner, who picked us up. He mentioned that this year’s National Day holiday visitors was unusually small, which was strange. Back at the hotel, the owner’s family was shocked to hear we’d been to White Lake and eagerly asked to see photos, expressing interest in getting a boat to fish there. Dinner at the hotel was leisurely—two hours for a plate of “Shou zhua fan” and a stir-fry. A group of girls on a leisure trip, starving, asked for a bite of our rice. When their food arrived—a whole roasted lamb—they repaid us with half a lamb leg, It’s a lucrative return on investment.

The next morning, the hotel owner helped us catch the free bus to Jiadengyu, where we transferred to another bus. As we left, Kanas was hit by heavy snow. The Kazakh driver, thrilled, kept saying how lucky we were to get out before the storm.

After a long journey back to Urumqi, Zilong and I wandered through the alleys behind Erdaoqiao, near the old flea market. We tried a variety of local Uyghur snacks—delicious, cheap, and hearty. Later, when chatting with a friend from Xinjiang, they were shocked: “You actually went there?!” I replied, “We’ve already braved bear territory. What’s there to be afraid of?”

Summary:

This is the most challenging expedition I have ever undertaken. The risks include dense wildlife activity, extremely long off-trail treks, limited reference information, and threats from poachers. Only a very few have completed the entire journey, while most teams had to abandon their trips midway.

Due to no trails, we ultimately had to resort to using an ultra-light inflatable boat to navigate the Kanas River, a highly perilous choice as such boats are only suitable for still waters.

In these mountains, September is the window period when the river flow is lower, bears are less likely to attack humans, and the snow is not too deep. However, during other seasons, it can be extremely dangerous.

The post The No Man’s Wilderness : White Lake Loop in Altai Mountains. first appeared on 3F UL GEAR Ultralight Outdoor Gears.

Adventure Report: Everest East Face and Kama Valley

3FULGEAR — Fri, 14 Feb 2025 11:03:16 +0000

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Adventure

Team member: Liu Yu, Mingyue, Jundao, Ruguo,Tusheng, etc.

Time: August 2014

Length: 140km 10 days

Location: Tibet

Difficulty: 5.5/10

This travelogue was published in “Cultural Geography” Magazine, Issue 12, 2015, Pages 128-137 by Liu Yu

This expedition took place ten years ago, and at the time, it was likely the first recorded attempt to explore the Kama Valley during the rain season.

Now, a decade later, I’ve decided to revisit this adventure, not just in memory but in writing. This retelling includes details and reflections that were omitted from the original article, as well as previously unpublished photographs.

The Kama Valley remains a place of mystery and wonder, a testament to the untamed beauty of nature.

There are now commercial adventure companies offering services similar to the itinerary in this article.

Note: Gama Valley and Kama Valley are both transliterations of the Tibetan word ‘嘎玛沟’, which may differ from other sources because the place names in this article are all in Tibetan.

Due to occasional GPS battery failures, some segments weren’t recorded:

A 2 km stretch from Lunzhulin Village to Xuemala.
A 3 km segment starting 1-2 km below Langmala Pass to a pasture.
Poor signal in the valley due to bad weather and deep gorges, especially on the final day.

Some areas in the Kama Valley had interference, causing signal offsets. Manual corrections were attempted but aren’t guaranteed.

DOWNLOAD GPS TRACK HERE

Adventure Report:

August 22, 7:30 PM 2014 China-Nepal Border Outpost

“It’s the first time I’ve seen anyone come out during this season,” a border guard greeted us.

What he saw was a small group of exhausted travelers, but they showed no intention of resting. Instead, they began scratching themselves frantically in front of the outpost. Seeing this, the soldier fetched several bags of salt and handed them to the group.

After a brief exchange, the soldier learned that this was Team A, a group of hikers from Shandong. They had lost contact with Team B and Yak team on a treacherous mountain path near Chentang Town. The reason for the separation was none other than this spine-chilling trail.

Meanwhile, in Chentang Town

“*********???” Unintelligible words filled the air, tinged with curiosity.

I set down my backpack, finally reaching a sheltered spot from the rain. However, being surrounded by so many strangers made me uneasy. I had no choice but to strip off my insect-proof suit, covered in leeches, and toss it aside. I removed my shirt to inspect myself. My teammates, with the help of Sherpas, were busy dealing with the pesky creatures, letting out occasional screams. One member pulled out a nearly dead radio and began calling for Team A and the Yak team. Only the Yak team responded, suggesting that Team A’s radio had run out of power. Mingyue, who was traveling with the yak herders, informed us that the yak team couldn’t proceed due to a landslide and would have to carry the supplies back tomorrow.

Despite being soaked and anxious about losing contact with the main group, I felt somewhat relieved. Just moments ago, we had traversed an unnamed path teeming with leeches, their suction-capped heads wriggling on the tips of grass blades. Fat caterpillars, thicker than sausages, squirmed with black and yellow bodies. Even though I usually wasn’t afraid of such creatures, I found myself sprinting in terror. Reflecting on it now, it must have been a primal fear of these soft-bodied creatures overwhelming my rationality. It’s easy to say you’re not afraid of something until you’re faced with an overwhelming number of them.

Now, the clouds began to disperse, revealing stunning layered peaks. Surrounded by a massive waterfall and mist, we found ourselves on a hillside in an ancient town, surrounded by locals who didn’t speak our language—all of us busy picking off leeches. It was an oddly surreal experience.

“Excuse me, is there a place to stay?” I gestured sleeping, and the Sherpa man opposite me seemed to understand some Chinese.

“Yes,” he replied firmly, eager to lead us there.

Following his directions, we arrived at a small square, perhaps the largest in town. We finally contacted Team A. As I spoke on the phone, I grew increasingly anxious. The Sherpa man, noticing my prolonged call, grew impatient, grabbed my bag, and started walking. We hurried after him. Our destination wasn’t a warm inn but the town government office. We were ushered into a living room, where officials warmly inquired about our situation and offered hot water and bread. It seemed we were temporarily detained as suspicious individuals. After consulting with the local police station, they suggested we head down to Zangga Village to reunite with Team A, mentioning that there were accommodations and showers available. It seemed Team A had already communicated with the police.

Down in the village, Team A and the caravan had already prepared food. After a quick meal, we retreated to our rooms to continue battling the leeches.

This marked the end of our journey, which began on the eastern side of Mount Everest and concluded at the end of the Kama Valley.

Ten Days Earlier

Our neatly packed gear lay outside the Everest Hotel. This was the first Himalayan expedition for most of us, and everyone was visibly excited. As Mingyue had said, the Everest East Face-Kama Valley route is a hallowed trail, an experience that would repeatedly surface in our lives and profoundly influence us. The trip had just ended, but its impact was already evident.

The route began in Qudang Township, Dingri County, following the Kadapu River upstream through Lunzhulin Village, then southward over the Langmala Pass (5,339 meters), past Tangxiang (4,500 meters), across the Kama Tsangpo River into the Zhuoqu Tsangpo and Zhuoqu Glacier area (4,200-5,300 meters), through the Badang, Ega, and Baidang pastures, crossing a tributary of the Zhuoqu Tsangpo, returning to Tangxiang from the Everest East Face Base Camp, then entering the Kama Valley (Kama Tsangpo Basin) via Zhuoxiang. Along the way, we passed Rega, Xuena, Shajitang (3,600 meters), Xiaowumi (3,000 meters), and numerous seasonal pastures, the Kama Tsangpo Glacier (Makalu and Everest East Face Glacier) outlet, and the Makalu South Face Glacier outlet, finally reaching Chentang Town (2,500 meters) in Dinggye County, the only Sherpa settlement in China, located on the Sino-Nepalese border. The entire journey spanned 111 kilometers and took 9 days and 10 hours.

Itinerary:

Day 1: Qudang Township – Lunzhulin Village (3,907 meters) – Xuemala (nearest campsite to Lunzhulin) – Lhatse (4,800 meters)

Day 2: Lhatse – Langmala Pass (5,400 meters) – Tsho Sholma (4,750 meters) – Tangxiang Hut (4,500 meters)

Day 3: Heavy rain, rest day

Day 4: Tangxiang Hut – Kama Tsangpo Bridge (4,200 meters) – Badang (4,300 meters) – Ega (4,600 meters) – Baidang (Peidangrenmu, 4,800 meters)

Day 5: Baidang – Everest East Face Base Camp (5,200 meters) – Baidang

Day 6: Baidang – Ega – Badang (4,300 meters) – Kama Tsangpo Bridge (4,200 meters) – Tangxiang Hut (4,500 meters)

Day 7: Tangxiang Hut – Shanong (4,220 meters) – Zhuoxiang (4,000 meters)

Day 8: Zhuoxiang – Rega – Luobai (3,650 meters) – Shajitang (3,620 meters)

Day 9: Shajitang – Naisangba (3,340 meters) – Ripu (3,100 meters) – Xiaowumi (3,080 meters)

Day 10: Xiaowumi – Wobalong (2,960 meters) – Danmudan (2,900 meters) – Guolapu (2,720 meters) – Zhaxiladuo (2,680 meters) – Chentang Town (2,500 meters) – Pengqu River Bridge – Zangga Village (2,200 meters)

Note: The pasture locals call Baidang is the closest campsite to Everest Base Camp, referred to as Peidangrenmu by the government. The place locals call Badang is called Baidang by the government. Be mindful of the distinction.

Day 1: August 13 – Qudang Township – Lunzhulin Village – Xuemala – Lhatse

We woke at 8 AM, had breakfast at a Sichuan restaurant opposite the Everest Hotel, and took a truck to Lunzhulin Village for 350 yuan. The yak herders were late, so we called the village secretary, who informed us that one yak had wandered off, leaving only seven. Another yak was brought from Lunzhulin Village, but we didn’t set off until 2 PM. Village children surrounded us, begging for candy, not even going home for lunch. One child had a large gash on his head but stopped crying after a while. I disinfected the wound and applied ointment.

The mountain trail was beautiful, lined with wildflowers, and everyone was excited. We arrived late, drenched by heavy rain, and too exhausted to eat. Mingyue, Feiyang, and I fetched water and cooked porridge to stave off hunger.

Lunzhulin is a poor, primitive village. The children seemed to have little parental supervision. They appeared to skip lunch and would go anywhere they thought might have food to beg for something to eat.The cradle local women carry is fascinating, allowing them to work while rocking the baby.

To hire yak herders, you need to contact the local government, which is fully responsible for assigning tasks to qualified herders. At the time, the rate was 90 yuan per day. However, it’s important to note that the fee is not calculated based on the actual days of the trek but includes the herders’ return journey. For example, our trip lasted 10 days, but according to government regulations, our designed routes are approved as 14-day routes, resulting in a total fee calculated for 28 days.

Day 2: August 14 – Lhatse – Langmala Pass – Tsho Sholma – Tangxiang Hut

The rain continued. We met a group on a longer trek who had better weather. Our yak team had issues, delaying our start, likely due to load distribution disputes. They used a stone-throwing method to decide who carried what… Mingyue, Feiyang, and I set off last, following the yak team. Langmala Pass, at 5,400 meters, had several false summits. The weather was terrible—strong winds and icy rain nearly caused hypothermia. After the pass, we found a cluster of snow lotuses in a valley. Descending further, we saw four alpine lakes. We reached Tangxiang Camp around 9 PM, staying in a herder’s hut instead of camping.

Day 3: August 15

Heavy rain forced us to rest. Bored, I slept all day, earning the title “Sleeping God.”

Day 4: August 16 – Tangxiang – Badang – Ega – Baidang

The rain lightened, and the clouds thinned. We decided to head to Baidang. As we descended, the roar of the Kama Valley’s waters echoed. The Kama Tsangpo River meandered through mist-shrouded mountains. Crossing a wooden bridge, we passed through dense shrubs, and the vegetation changed dramatically as we ascended. At 4,500 meters, we found a lingzhi mushroom.

At Ega Camp, we met a solo traveler, Li Congming, trail name is “独孤骑者”Lone Biker, who had just crossed the Changtang Plateau with only a bike pack. A legendary cyclist.

We reached Baidang Camp as dusk fell. After a brief chat with Li, we learned he planned to traverse the entire Changtang. We then launched into a discussion about winter crossings of the Changtang uninhabited region. We agreed that such an expedition in extreme cold would require highly reliable gear and sufficient fuel. However, Li Congming was far more optimistic than the rest of us.

That night, yaks overran our camp, damaging my tent and stepping on me. In anger, I used pepper spray to drive them away, but the entire camp suffered, coughing fits echoing everywhere.

Day 5: August 17 – Baidang – Everest East Face Base Camp – Baidang

I woke early to shouting and found Mount Everest and Lhotse bathed in golden sunlight. The 7,500-meter-tall Chomolonzo is even more striking than Everest and Lhotse. Its shape resembles that of a majestic eagle, with its massive form unfolding before the camp, exuding an overwhelming presence. There has been much debate over the name of this peak, but for now, I believe “Chomolonzo” is the most authentic.

The trail to the base camp was rough. Bo Ge and I stopped at a high-altitude lake, as thick clouds obscured Everest. We saw a solar halo instead. By 4 PM, we returned to camp. I repaired my tent, washed my socks and gaiters, and the others trickled back.

In the afternoon, Li Congming packed up his tent, telling me he sensed the weather was about to turn bad. I agreed with his assessment, as I had noticed the increasing humidity through the presence of a solar halo. He, on the other hand, relied on a lifetime of intuition honed from wandering the mountains.

8:00 PM – The Valley Shrouded in Fog. As the evening settled in, a thick fog enveloped the valley, reducing visibility to just a few meters. A four-person team had yet to return, and concern grew among the rest of us. We convened a meeting to discuss our options. After some deliberation, I made the decision: if the team hadn’t returned by 10:00 PM, we would initiate a rescue operation.

By 10:00 PM, there was still no sign of the missing team. I assembled a four-person search and rescue squad, all seasoned hikers with extensive experience in challenging conditions. Armed with GPS devices, compasses, and detailed topographic maps, we set out into the foggy night. The visibility was so poor that we had to constantly recalibrate our position using the tools at hand. By analyzing the terrain and the location of nearby glaciers on the map, we identified potential areas where the missing team might have sought shelter.

Around midnight, we spotted a faint glimmer of light in the distance. Using this as a reference point, we adjusted our course and moved in a tangential direction. Ten minutes later, through triangulation, we pinpointed the coordinates of the missing team. The search proceeded smoothly, and Jundao, one of our most skilled rescuers, used ropes to safely extract the stranded hikers from a maze of ice pinnacles. Fortunately, aside scared, they were unharmed. The cause of their disorientation was the dense fog, which had obscured their path and landmarks.

Day 6: August 18 – Baidang – Ega – Badang – Tangxiang Hut

We slept until 9 AM, likely due to yesterday’s exhaustion. Leaving Baidang, children begged for food. We moved quickly under cloudy skies with intermittent rain. Unlike our initial foggy ascent, we now had a clear view of the Kama Valley, with Makalu and Everest occasionally visible. Waterfalls cascaded down unnamed peaks. As we ascended to Tangxiang, rain began—typical of the Himalayan monsoon. At camp, we met a trio from Linyi, including a man in his 60s. I stayed in the same hut as before. Despite delays, we were still on schedule to reach Lhasa by the 25th.

Day 7: August 19 – Tangxiang – Shanong – Zhuoxiang

We rose at 6 AM to a dark, freezing morning. The yak herders were still asleep as we ate. The sunrise over the peaks energized everyone. Clouds came and went. The day’s short trek meant we reached Zhuoxiang by 2 PM. Some wanted to push on, but I saw little point. Descending into the valley would mean worse weather and water sources, saving only two hours. Better to rest at this five-star camp, dry our gear, and prepare for the next three days of dampness. The afternoon sun was glorious. I changed into beach shorts, set up a parasol, and felt like I was on a seaside vacation. We washed clothes, hair, and even brushed our teeth. That night, we had a feast, including hot pot, and the yak herders made delicious beef noodle soup. I even tried roasted barley.

It is worth noting that there is a path near this location that reaches the eastern face of Makalu, a more hidden corner that is rarely visited.

Day 8: August 20

Rain fell, but we couldn’t afford another rest day. The camp was surrounded by hundreds of wild chickens, unnoticed the day before. Entering the Kama Valley, the vegetation changed, with unfamiliar flowers appearing. We got lost, likely heading toward the Makalu East Face Glacier. Tsering Norbu spotted us from a hillside and guided us back. After lunch, we entered dense forests, experiencing relentless ascents and descents. Shajitang was an abandoned village overrun with thorny plants. The camp had good water but little flat ground. Dinner was canned meat stew and hot pot. The camp was infested with insects, so we avoided lighting lamps.

Day 9: August 21 – Shajitang – Naisangba (3,340 meters) – Ripu (3,100 meters) – Xiaowumi (3,080 meters)

Today’s trek was easier, with fewer ascents and descents. Leeches were less frequent, with only 2-3 per hour. The trail was rough, mostly abandoned and swampy. We began to experience true subtropical rainforest scenery. Wooden paths had decayed into mud, with new planks laid over them, creating a cycle of decay and renewal, resulting in today’s swampy trails.

The trek was incredibly challenging, with nearly every step feeling like an ordeal. The rainforest was revealing its terrifying side. All of our waterproof gear was makeshift, and our rain jackets quickly became soaked. The air was oppressively hot and humid. In such conditions, I found that an umbrella was a far more reliable tool.

Additionally, any insect-proof gear we had prepared proved utterly ineffective at this point. Insects and soft-bodied creatures swarmed toward us as if we were a feast. It was nearly impossible to avoid extra “protein” in our food. Well, this was something we simply had to adapt to.

In this area, many old trees can be encountered on which the government has marked their age, the oldest about 3,900 years old, which looks like a huge high tower.

Day 10: Xiaowumi – Wobalong (2,960 meters) – Danmudan (2,900 meters) – Guolapu (2,720 meters) – Zhaxiladuo (2,680 meters) – Chentang Town (2,500 meters) – Pengqu River Bridge – Zangga Village (2,200 meters)

Xiaowumi was a nightmare camp, with leeches everywhere and swampy ground. Only a small uphill area was dry. In the morning, we found leeches covering our yaks’ backs and eyes, swollen to the size of fingers, leaving the animals bleeding profusely. It was too gruesome to photograph. Today’s trek was strenuous, with constant ascents and descents. The final 1-2 km to Chentang Town was infested with leeches—slow walkers could easily pick up over 1,000. We fled, leading to the opening scene of this account. Even so, I removed hundreds of leeches in Chentang. Later, I heard that even Tsering Norbu, our yak herder, was frightened by this stretch—a man I considered as tough as a wild beast.

Every blade of grass bore over ten leeches, and the area was densely covered in grass.

I discovered that the most effective way to deal with leeches was to continuously rub salt grains on my legs, which effectively prevented them from crawling upward. However, this had to be done every five minutes. Since I was wearing an insect-proof net, I managed to ignore the leeches to some extent, but they quickly covered my face. In the end, I had no choice but to kill them with saltwater.

Day 11: Chentang Town – Dinggye County – Lhasa

Chentang Town is undergoing significant development, likely for tourism. The town is densely populated with little arable land, less than one acre per person. The Sherpas, primarily farmers, are mostly poor. Tourism may change this. The Sherpas are shy and friendly, with children running away at the sight of us, unlike the candy-begging kids in Lunzhulin. I hope future visitors avoid giving candy, which encourages begging, and instead offer tools.

Few Sherpas understand Chinese, even among the youth. Once, at a teahouse, I asked for “tea” with a drinking gesture, but the owner handed me a business license, thinking I wanted to “inspect” it. It was both frustrating and amusing.

I find that here, women are mostly engaged in heavy physical labour such as carrying water and building materials. Men are mostly involved in skilled labour, such as carpentry and construction.

Summary:
The route itself is not difficult but the altitude is over 5000 metres in some places and care needs to be taken to prevent and control AMS.The valleys are very dangerous during the rainy season and locals do not enter the Kama valley during the rainy season and care needs to be taken for geological hazards.

Although the trek to the east face of Mount Everest is now successfully operated by many commercial adventure companies, but hardly any companies go here in the rainy season. If you wish to explore this area, I recommend planning your trip between late September and late October.

Postscript: Li Congming disappeared in his last expedition 2014, he entered the no man’s land of northern Tibet, a total of 1,500 kilometres, which he almost completed after consuming all his food after more than 70 days. After two years, a team of off-road vehicle explorers found his belongings: a tent, sleeping bag, bicycle, camera and notebook. But there was no sign of a human being.

He was a great cyclist and contributed his life to the Tibetan expedition.The books and travelogues he wrote are an invaluable legacy to later cycling explorers.

The post Adventure Report: Everest East Face and Kama Valley first appeared on 3F UL GEAR Ultralight Outdoor Gears.

Adventure Report: Aotai Trek

3FULGEAR — Tue, 26 Nov 2024 07:06:32 +0000

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Adventure

WHO: Yu Liu, Liang XueYan, Jumper(JiangPu/Li Tao)

WHEN: July 2019

LENGTH: 80km 4days

WHERE: Qinling Mountain, Shanxi

DIFFICULTY: 5.5/10

This article is for our best friend, Jumper– the best explorer and outdoor gear designer(1972-2021)

DAY1 TaibaiMountain(3771m)-Dongyuan(3174m)

The mist hadn’t lifted yet, and we walked for 4 hours in the mist relying entirely on our GPS, but I could vaguely see black forests appearing and a sea of rocks fading away – the remains of those fourth-season glaciers proved that this place had once been an ice field, and that it was as high as 3,500 metres above sea level, but there were no objects in the shape of a mountain, and that the high-speed winds all year round chipped away at everything sharp, even hard granite can not escape the fate. From the top of Taibai Mountain to Dongyuan is a 10-kilometre stretch of alpine flatland, as flat as a rocky meadow. You can hardly imagine that all this was done in 10,000 years, which shows that the wind here is extremely terrible. He is like an invisible demon that has devoured the lives of countless trekkers. That’s why it’s also called the trekking route with the highest mortality rate.

Luckily we had passed safely through this place of death, and near the end we came across a large mani mound, also known as the ‘Position of the Ten Million Immortals’ (3,564m), which shows the way to the souls who have lost their way in the mountains.

Dongyuan is a pass and a wide area of alpine swamp, it is the source of a river and a paradise of animals, but in recent years a large number of trekkers have used this place as the last campsite of AotaiTrek, dropping so much trash and gears that the place has been seriously ecologically damaged. I have been here many times, so this time I wanted to do the route in reverse and Dongyuan became our first campsite

Jumper started to set up his homemade cuben tent, I had long since set up my Lanshan 1.5 prototype, and LiangXueyan was more cautious with a Lanshan 2 Fly. It’s very cold here, with little to no bugs, and we’ve all left the screen mesh inner tent at home.

DAY2 Dongyuan(3174m)-Xiyuan(3200m)-3 pyramid shaped peak-3200camp

We had 16 kilometres to walk today and there was no water on the trail, so our packs were heavy. Sometimes we climbed to the top of the mountain, sometimes we followed the trail west along the mountainside, one time on the south face, the next time round to the north. Sometimes the trail disappeared suddenly, so we climbed boulders and moved by jumping between rocks the size of pickup trucks. This extremely physically demanding trail is the feature of this trek, so the weight of the backpack is magnified, and if I’m carrying a 20kg backpack, as other trekkers do, it’s hard for me to jump on the rocks with confidence.

Jumper is an experienced hiker who could easily have done this route 20 years ago when it was still a no-man’s land. He often chooses different trails than us, or maybe there are no trails. Perhaps he likes to see different landscapes, while Liang and I prefer the safety of the trails.

Camp 2800 is the choice of most trekkers, but its a gusty windy pass that we deliberately avoided by camping on a small platform 400 metres above it.

DAY3 3200camp-2800camp-Shuiwozi(3100m)

This day’s journey was extremely similar to DAY 2, with an endless rocks left behind by melting glaciers.

Before approaching the shuiwozi camp, we passed a flat summit, which was very windy just like the one we walked on the first day, where many people got hypothermia and lost their lives.

We were lucky that there was very little wind here, so that we were able to send some flowers to the Hiker’s Monument.

Thank goodness for good weather.

Shuiwozi is a low spot on the side of a mountainside, a sheltered spot, but winds at certain angles can create vortexes here that make the bad weather worse, and no place here is absolutely safe.

I remember one year over 50 tents were destroyed here at the same time and everyone had to terminate their trek early.

DAY4 Shuiwozi-Aoshan（3500m）-Niangniangtai（2900m）-Road（2000m）

Today was extremely intense, with close to 30 kilometres to go, and we needed to do everyone else’s two-day trip in one day.

Because I realised that the weather was about to change dramatically , heavy rain was coming.

The trail is rarely travelled and most people will follow the northern slopes of Aoshan, but we chose the southern side of the valley.

This is the watershed between the climates of southern and northern China, and the south and north sides of the mountain have completely different vegetation distributions, with the south side being closer to the tropics and very humid.

Near the bottom of the valley the vegetation almost covered the trail and I had to use my hiking poles to open up the taller grasses as I went, which had the added benefit of let the wildlife to know that we were coming.

It was after 10pm when we reached the end of the route, a road I’d never been on before, Jumper sent GPS directions to his friend and we were soon back in the city.

Summary:

This trail is not too difficult overall, but the bad weather has caused many people to get injured or even lose their lives here. I think this risk is manageable, firstly by judging the window period through software such as windy to avoid encountering cold air from the north that is in the process of moving south but hasn’t yet arrived in this area, which is very prone to producing storms. If the northerly winds have started to build up and the weather is clear, the window has arrived and will last at least 2-3 days. If the southerly winds start, the weather won’t become deadly, but it will continue to rain lightly to moderately. This is the time to get down as soon as possible. If the southerly winds end and the northerly winds begin, you have about 1 day to evacuate the centre of the storm.

The other thing is that most people carry too much stuff, and the misconception is that the weather is bad here and I need to carry more gear and food. But that’s a recipe for disaster, too heavy a pack doesn’t allow one to travel fast and make quick choices. This is a high plateau and overpacking can make one more susceptible to acute mountain sickness.

Postscript:

Li Tao, trail name Jumper, who has a PhD in architectural design from Australia, has clearly put his talents to work where he prefers: hiking. And at the age of 40 he founded his own brand, Jumper Home, where he showed us a lot of uniquely designed gear on the trek, especially tents and backpacks, and he has always been an important inspiration to us, and this time was no exception.

But this was our last hike with Jumper, in 2021, he found a paradise in the great mountains.

The post Adventure Report: Aotai Trek first appeared on 3F UL GEAR Ultralight Outdoor Gears.

Adventure Report: North of the Southern Tian Shan Trek

3FULGEAR — Fri, 16 Aug 2024 07:55:00 +0000

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Adventure

Team member: Liang Xueyan, Liu Yu, Liu Yinxi, Chen Xiaofen, Yan Nan, Psnake, XiaoLongNv

Time: August 2024

Length: 85km 6 days

Location: Xinjiang

Difficulty: 7.5/10

This is one of the most difficult treks in China. The history of the route is very new, with people starting to walk it after about 2019. The total length of the route is 140 kilometres, but you can get resupply or get out of the mountain at about 85 kilometres, and most people will only walk 85 kilometres because the scenery is better in the first half of the route.

Lack of sufficient information makes this route full of uncertainty.

What we do know is that the route involves climbing at least 2 snowy mountain passes with large glaciers, so some mountaineering tools are needed.

This is beyond the scope of a trekking route, and the extra mountaineering tools add weight, moreover making lightweight gear especially important.

This time my rucksack weighed about 10kg. Carried the latest Lanshan 1 pro SilPoly which weighs only 630g. The new Tianshan rucksack is made by Ultra200X. These two pieces of gear were the test gear for this trip and I evaluated the performance of both pieces of gear and determined how they could be improved.

I also tested the Extra Quilt EX zip from ICEFLAME, filled with 420g of 900FP down and weighing just 600g.

You can download my gear list at the link below.

https://lighterpack.com/r/lepu6f

Adventure Report:

DAY1 16km Solan Valley-Camp 1

Ascend: 1380m

The first day’s altitude will not exceed 3000 metres. Most of the time is spent walking in valleys and ridge meadows with views of snow-capped mountains in the distance. The paths are in good condition.

DAY2 16km Camp1-Malaerte Pass 3562m- Cabin

Ascend: 785m

The next day over a scree-filled pass is not too difficult and you can see the road clearly. Over the pass there is a dramatic descent, reaching directly into the river valley at over 2,000 metres above sea level. In the river valley there are a lot of brown bears, so we find a cabin instead of using a tent.

DAY3 14km Cabin- Valley crossing- Grass land before Asusada Pass 3600m

Ascend: 850m

Needed to cross a fast flowing river today and needed to build a protection system with ropes. This will delay a lot of time.

The way up towards the valley above is becoming less and less obvious and a lot of time is consumed determining whether the way is to the left or right of the river. This is very energy and time consuming. If the judgement is wrong, danger can be encountered.

There is a grassy area and clear water source high up a few hundred metres from the pass, making it an ideal campsite.

In the evening a member of the team had an acute attack of ITBS, a condition that causes rapid loss of movement. My treatment was to administer 0.75mg dexamethasone every 4 hours. Knowing that the acute oedema was gone.

DAY4 15.6km Asusada Pass 3880m-Small Lake-Glacier-Kirin Pass 3800m-Grass Camp

Ascend: 750m

Starting today off the trail, all future hikes are off-trail.

Over the 3880 metre scree pass, you can see the snow-capped mountains to be climbed in the distance. This day will lead into a glacier trek.

There are no trails leading to the glacier, you can only refer to the GPS history of other people’s walks combined with your own judgement from experience. The path is difficult to follow and full of moving rocks. You have to be extra careful with every step. There are also raging streams to contend with that flow down from the high mountains. Very dangerous.

The glacier walk started at 3pm and it was easy compared to the scree slopes and we soon reached the Kirin I pass, that is dangerous because of an ice slope of about 45 degrees, which requires the correct use of ice crampons in order to pass through, otherwise you may fall into the ice lake below.

Kirin II is a scree pass with no glacier or trail and requires going over countless rocks. This pass is the second most dangerous pass of the trip.

The campsite is at least an hour from Kirin II Pass.

DAY5 17.8 km Grass camp- Glacier-Elemente Pass I 4100m-Elemente Pass II-Camp

Ascend: 821m

Almost all of the day was spent marching on the glacier, there was about an hour’s sharp descent from the campsite to the glacier valley, there were no trail and it was difficult to walk through the bush.

There are several kilometres of walking on the glacier, and the area close to the pass is full of ice cracks, so walking in groups is required. Over Pass 1 there is a sharply descending ice slope that requires the use of ice axes.

Pass 2 has a broken snow bridge blocked by an ice crevasse so it is necessary to climb up the steep left side of the mountain, it is all movable rocks between 10-30cm and the left side of the peak is heavily weathered with rocks falling so helmets are necessary. Pass 2 is the most dangerous place in this adventure and it seems to be trying to tell you not to go over it.

Most people will burn through all their energy to get over these two passes.

But it’s not over yet, next you’ll be doing kilometres of glacier walking and need to bypass many ice crevasses.

Arriving at camp is late.

DAY6 7.6km Leave the Trek.

Today we dried all our gears as we have been getting wet almost every day for the past few days. It only takes 3 hours to leave the trail. We arrived at a construction site where a tunnel is being built through the Tianshan mountains and glacier.

The staff said the tunnel is 16 kilometres long and could be completed by 2029. This means saving at least one to two days of driving to southern Xinjiang.

Summary:

This is a risky and difficult expedition that is not for new hikers as it is lack of detailed information and has no trails.
Mountaineering tools are a must and can greatly reduce the danger.

For such an adventure, our pack was about 10kg and the weight of the pack did not create a disturbing burden, which made us all happy. The Lanshan pro Silpoly has performed very well and we have gathered a few issues that can be improved to make it even better before it is officially sold. The new pack prototype are being built in 2 models, a carbon fibre plate and an aluminium frame suspension system, both to be named the Tianshan pack.We will manufacture one of 2 models in future.

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Adventure Report: NyenchingTanggula Sapu Mont Trek

3FULGEAR — Sat, 26 Oct 2019 11:17:24 +0000

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Adventure

Team member: Yu Liu, Shan Ren, Long Kui, "Two", “Little Demon”, Meng Qiang

Time: October, 2019

Length: 128km, 10 days

Location: Southeast Tibet

Difficulty: 7.5/10

DAY1 15.5km Atuoku Village-Sirongcuo Lake-Sirong Pass 5362m-Camp1

DAY2 10km Camp1-Maan Pass 5373m-Cabin

DAY3 8km Linlu Pass 5414m- Valley west of Sapu-Cabin

DAY4 14km Cabin-Yangqiong Pass 5485m-Samu Lake- Yangduo

DAY5 10.4km Samu Lake-Sana Pass 5490m-Glacier-Lvdumu Lake-Cabin

DAY6 13.6km Cabin-Monong River Valley-Dire-Naruo Village-Cabin

DAY7 20km Cabin-Sangqiong(Yingzui) Pass 5360m-Cabin

DAY8 15km Cabin-Jinlongqiu Mountain-Wujian Cuo Lake-Cabin

DAY9 15km Wujian Cuo Lake- unkown name Village

DAY10 8km Cabin-Chizu Vallage

I tried to record this adventure in a different style of writing.

PART I: DAY 7, LAST DAYS IN WILD

The rain kept falling, and as the elevation dropped, the ground became more and more muddy and watery, with mud puddles large and small stretching out in front of us into low-lying valleys further down the trail. The meadows slowly disappeared and the annoying bushes grew taller and progressively denser, blocking the view, a nerve-wracking situation.

‘Slow down, how long before we get to the camp?’

‘It’s still some distance, there’s an open field where the valley forks ahead, and going into the valley on the right, we’ll pass a couple of abandoned villages, and if we don’t get to that blue lake before sunset, we’ll have to camp in the villages.’

Stopping to rest was a luxury, and it was difficult to find a dry place to sit down. While stopping to wait for the rear party, I noticed the puddles on the road getting bigger and more defined in shape.

‘I’m afraid we’re going to have to go a little faster, the footprints here are clear and look like they’ve just been walked over.’

‘Is this a black or brown bear?’

‘It looks like a small brown bear. This way, we’ll take turns calling out and it will let the bear know we’re there.’

‘Hey! Ha! Hey!’

Crossing a swampy and slate-lined bridge, it looks like it was made by the locals, who set logs up side by side over the river, tied them up with rope, and laid pieces of stone they’d picked up from the river on top of them. If they didn’t, this raging mountain stream couldn’t even be crossed by a horse. On the other side of the bridge was an open field where stood several long-abandoned huts.

It was still raining, but the sun had made it impossible to keep your eyes open, the grass near by refracting a soft green light, the snow-capped mountains in the distance reflecting a strong white light. The clouds were quickly dispersed by the heat of the light, and I unconsciously turned backwards to avoid the glare, but found a rainbow standing over the river I had just walked across. In this place we were surrounded by strange light.

‘There’s a bear, look, is that a bear over there? Hurry!’

‘Right! Quickly get my camera.’

It had run away by the time I fetched my camera, stopping to look backwards at our uninvited guests as it ran, a hint of fear and curiosity in its movements at the same time.

During this season, brown bears in Tibet descend from the mountains around human villages due to food shortages, and the one just now was looking for food inside an abandoned house.

‘Hey! Ha! Hey!’

I saw a smashed wooden house, as if it had been struck by some huge object, with only one pillar standing there, on which hung a yak skull inscribed with scriptures, as if it were a totem. Several hundred metres of the mountainside behind the house had been cut down to nothing but stumps and hung with sutras.

Such steep bare slopes can’t hang snow in winter, and it is likely that an avalanche destroyed the house. The gods would have been helpless when they cut down the pine trees that protected their houses and turned to mysterious forces for help, right?

‘The sun is going down, we still have time to get to the lake, I can already hear the sound of a waterfall in the distance, that must be the outlet of the lake over there.’

From the satellite map, WujianCuo Lake is a large blue lake under glacier. In reality, it is surrounded by snow-capped mountains on three sides, and the water is fresh and clean, with a slight blue glow under the refraction of the setting sun.

At the head of the lake, there is a small piece of flat land, hung with streamers, as if for the organisation of some kind of ceremony used. The Tibetans believe that the lake under the sacred mountain is a goddess, and they make scripture-like coloured cloths into streamers and hang them in front of natural wonders, believing that they can obtain the blessings of the gods.

Unlike other religions, these gods are essentially nature itself. Tibetan Buddhism’s worship of nature originated in the indigenous and primitive Bon religion, and later Buddhism absorbed the Bon religion’s belief in the great mountains and lakes, forming the characteristics of what is now known as Tibetan Buddhism.

‘I checked the house, and it has cow dung and firewood and a furnace, so I should be able to stay here for the night.’

‘Will any beasts come?’

‘Don’t worry, the animals won’t bother us, we’ll put wood against the door, and with the smoke inside the house, they’ll know there’s someone here. The herdsmen have already taught them for us.’

Each abandoned house had scattered firewood, which we collected one by one and bagged. Then the firewood was dragged near the fireplace, breaking them with our boots, and put into the fire, which crackled and flared, and the fire was strong enough to dispel the dampness in the cabin.

The house was dry, the door was well blocked, and we could sleep in peace, and if felt cold, add some wood to the fireplace.

PART II: WHY WE WENT WILD

For modern people, cities represent civilisation and rationality, comfort and progress. Thousands of kilometres away from the city, in the Nyenching Tanggula Mountains, most of the people living there still lead a primitive life of herding and gathering. Most of the women in the mountains have no access to education and spend their lives raising horses and herding cows in the mountains.

Their villages are connected only by a dirt track, and although there are mobile phones, there is no internet, and the only use of electricity is for lighting. Their way of life is guided by Buddha, including food, even if a salmon swims into the bowl, they will not hesitate to pour it out.

Many people have asked me why I am so keen on travelling to places that are dangerously desolate, and if I had answered in a pop style, I probably would have said, as many people do, in puzzling words: because it’s there. But now that I have the time, I’m willing to tell the truth in my mind.

The city I live in has a population of 7 million and the urban area is only a few dozen kilometres to the north, south and east-west. Beyond these dense high-rise buildings and complicated roads, there are small villages.

The people who live there have their own houses in the city, but every weekend they go back to their homes, open the gates of their courtyards made of bamboo strips, and post their best menus to the side of the road, welcome to their guest.

They usually drive luxury cars and stay in star hotels on business trips, but now they don’t care whether the floor is paved with marble or red bricks, they don’t care about the leaves and dust scattered on the tables, even bird droppings and caterpillars may fall at any time when they dine under the big trees.

For these people, being away from a clean and dry city is at the same time being away from the nuisance that civilisation brings. If they have to choose between quality of life and disturbance, they will still choose to stay away from disturbance at special time, which is a means of healing for city dwellers. Going to experience a more primitive life essentially tends to establish a connection with nature, to repair one’s damaged spirit.

And my love of exploring the mountains has no different from those who enjoy have weekend food in village, both have the same aspirations and original intentions. But I prefer to get in touch with pure nature.

Eating wood-fired chicken under a big walnut tree won’t satisfy my desire to explore, so I have to go in search of the more remote and pure wilderness.

Where to look for? Of course, it is Xinjiang and Tibet, a large area of the mountains, where the traffic is inconvenient, there is no hotel, no tourists, I can group a small adventure team, free to explore. I will carry a backpack and a tent, and will not be surrounded by unrelated people.

PART III: 9 DAYS AGO

In order to improve the quality of life, team member Meng Qiang booked a guesthouse in Nagchu, Tibet that provides diffused oxygen supply. However, in order to adapt to the low-oxygen environment, I forbade everyone to switch on the oxygen valve.

It was already the fourth day since we arrived at the plateau, and if we inhaled oxygen for the sake of momentary comfort, the efforts of the previous four days would be wasted.

Due to the long hours of walking in the plateau mountains, I was able to take a long run even at 5,000 metres in Nagchu. So a nice bath was even less of a problem for me.

What I didn’t expect was that other team members also learnt from me to take a bath, and as a result, two female team members: Two and Demon showed symptoms of cold and fever that night, and their blood oxygen saturation dropped from over 90% to over 70%.

I turned the oxygen valve on as they needed it to increase their resistance to recover their bodies.

‘Yu, it’s been an hour and the blood oxygen hasn’t changed, what’s going on?’

‘It might not be oxygen, let’s try it. Light the tissue paper, close to the air valve, try to see if it burns more violently.’

I carefully put the burning paper close to the ‘oxygen’, but the flame didn’t change at all.

‘Shit, it’s fake oxygen.’

The town of Giali is the entry point to the mountains, and it is a 4-5 hour cross-country vehicle ride from Nagchu. Most Tibetan men need to have an ATV when they reach adulthood, otherwise they will not be able to move an inch on this vast and desolate roof of the world. One of the benefits of the ATV is that if they hit a barrier, they can go through the surrounding alpine meadows. I don’t know what they would need to bypass the barrier, presumably because they were carrying us outsiders?

By the time we reached the original entry point, it was already that night. There is a danger of encountering wild animals when camping by the roadside, but we chose to camp immediately as opposed to walking at night. The restaurant owner in the village told me that there had recently been a bear infestation, and that people had been killed by bears during the night, and that the villagers were terrified.

‘You must be careful, it’s best not to go into the mountains, there are too many bears.’ The village restaurant owner said.

‘It’s all right, there’s no food left in the mountains, the bears have all come down to look for food, it’s hard for us to meet bears.’

It would be a lie to say that there was no concern at all, after all, bears are also attracted to the smells from our tents. But I believe that being swatted by a bear is a small probability compared to a car accident.

PART IV: DAY2-DAY5 WESTERN FACE OF SAPUGANGRI

Photos of the northern face of Sapugangri are common on the internet, but the western face are rarely seen. If you look at the photos of the Western face at first glance, you’d think it was a mountain in Nepal or the Alps.

To see the Western face, you need to go over a rocky pass at an altitude of more than 5,300 metres, with no trail, which is unfamiliar to the locals.

In the middle of the pass there is a large stone paved platform, which is flat, but there are few plants willing to grow in such a barren place. In the middle of this platform is a blue ice lake set in the middle, which tells us that this was once a glacier.

‘We need to hurry, the weather is changing too fast.’

‘Okay, but the air is thin.’

The path to the pass is littered with scree, boulders that have flaked, crashed and cracked under glacial erosion and thermal expansion, full of sharp edges.

I wonder how the first Tibetans who came here found these paths. The so-called path is to walk through the rocks without a trace of dirt underfoot or any markings, like finding the optimal escape route in a maze.

The higher the altitude, the faster the weather changes, bad weather can strike at any time, and the lack of oxygen slows down the action and makes the danger even more dangerous. At this point, the only thing you can do is to save your strength and keep your mind clear.

When we reached a few dozen metres below the pass, a fierce snowstorm suddenly descended, visibility was instantly reduced, the back of the team disappeared into the wind and snow, the front team could only temporarily hide under a big rock for shelter.

‘Yu, it will be a long time before Shanren and Meng Qiang come up, should we wait? Or should we go over now?’

‘We must wait, or they won’t be able to find their way over the pass. Bring out the tents and mats, let’s hide under it.’

‘Yu, it will be a long time before Shanren and Meng Qiang come up, should we wait? Or should we go over now?’

‘We must wait, or they won’t be able to find their way over the pass. Bring out the tents and mats, let’s hide under it.’

Even though we just put the tent over our heads, it was much warmer inside than outside, and the wind and snow couldn’t blow in at all. A thin nylon sheet, a few people squeezed inside, heat and moisture filled the small space, on the outside was the vast stretching Nyenching Tanggula mountain range, but the cold wind and blizzard was raging.

By the time Meng Qiang and the others walked up, the snow had stopped, the sun was back out, the sky was clearer than before, and the deep blue colour made the snow seem unreal.

All the colours on us were more vibrant than before, and if I had tried to record the feeling with my camera, it would have had to be pulled up saturation.

The wind on the pass was nowhere to be found, and there was even some warmth standing in the setting sun, the snow hiding the footprints that had come, as strange as the sudden descent here.

The sun was setting and the shadows of the mountains were growing and lengthening along the ridgelines, and although we wanted to enjoy the afterglow of the setting sun for a little while longer, the shadows of the mountains were telling us that we needed to find the campsite asap.

Walking in such a barren land can be a more heartfelt way of thanking nature for the food and shelter it has given us. We’ve always thought of those things as mere products of industry and ingenuity, but here you realise that it’s more important what resources nature itself can provide.

If I hadn’t been hiding inside a tent made of petroleum and curled up in a sleeping bag made of bird down, I wouldn’t have been able to find anything that would have kept us alive on this windy, snowy night in this barren land.

The tent shook violently in the strong winds, and I could only pray that the fabric of the tent would resist the hypothermia and tearing, or I would lose my life. No wonder the locals worship the towering snow-capped mountains as if they were deities, faith becomes the only saving grace when through hard work one cannot provide support for survival.

In the morning when I drilled out of my ice-crusted sleeping bag, I found that the plastic water bag filled with water froze into an icy lump, and if it wasn’t for the strong plateau sunshine, I might have had to carry this big ice cube on my back to continue my trek.

From my review, the first four passes of this trek were all of the same type: above 5,300 metres in altitude, full of gravel or rocks, with no trail bed and steep gradients.

After the third pass, we reached the western slopes of Sapugangri, with a muddy road that goes right up to the glacier nearby, and two very modest, ventilated, air-sprinkled tin houses. Who wants to be huddled in a cramped tent when there is a house to live in, no matter what it is like.

I shoved cow shit into the roaring fireplace and the heat and smoke made the house dry and warm. The crew who had been out shooting the stars panicked and came back inside, telling that they had heard wolves howling, and we learnt to howl like wolves.

Maybe it was too much of a fake learning, and no more wolf howls outside.

PART V: DAY6-DAY8

Sapugangri north face of the glacial lake called ‘Samucuo Lake’, the lake has begun a modern infrastructure projects, keen sense of smell of commercial, this side of the row of view tin room, written: Visitor Assistance Centre xxx assistance in the construction of the. Here a bed 100 yuan(Around 15usd/ per person).

No separate room, no bathroom, no toilet. But after the hardships of the first few days, these conditions can already be very pleasant. At least one couple we met on the way was planning to stay here for a few more days.

But staying here is not without any worries, first of all, you will slowly begin to struggle with what to eat, is beef stewed potatoes or tomatoes scrambled eggs; internet will also make people more troublesome, if you send a post on instagram, it may be thought that this is a scenic spot, reducing the level of this adventure, if you do not send it, you will feel uncomfortable; the smell of the food here will attract a lot of uninvited guests. You have to worry about getting your head slapped off by a brown bear behind you when you shitting at night.

Talking of bears, we are not imagining things, in fact, there was a bear banging on the door in the middle of the night, and the Tibetan caretaker shouted at the door, and it soon left.

In terms of both mental torture and physical well-being, this was not a place to stay for long. We still decided to leave as soon as possible.

Walking to the foot of Mount Sapugangri, I realised that Samucuo Lake looks far less big on the map than it does in reality, and that at the location of the glacier marked on the map, it is now a green lake where the glacier has melted and retreated to the foot of the mountain.

Even at such a distance from civilisation, human industrial activity can affect every flower, plant, fish and insect, every rock and ice here. But can every change here affect people in the civilised and ‘rational’ world in the same way?

This is another reason why I love walking in the wilderness. I have an almost naïve hope that through the power of words, I can establish a weak link between people living in the civilised world and the wilderness.

Going east from Samucuo Lake over the glacier-covered snow-capped mountain passes, one reaches Naruo. There are villages there, as well as several snow-capped mountains and lakes, said to be the illegitimate sons and daughters of the god Sapu.

To get to Naruo, you have to go over a stretch of snow-covered mountains that are covered with glaciers and snow, with only a 5,490-metre gap to go over, which some people call the Sana Pass, but there is no way of verifying this name. Ask the locals and they simply reply, ‘There is indeed a trail over there.’

The Sana Pass is different from the previous ones in that it is covered by glaciers and snow, and to get over it safely requires a certain knowledge of glaciers, to know where to walk, and in the season of heavy snowfall, there may be a large number of dark crevasses distributed under the surface of the flat glacier. We couldn’t spot those crevasses, so we kept to marching on the lateral moraine.

The dark blue light was refracted from within the towering glacier, and beneath our feet were scorched gravel which, like thin mud, slid down half a step with each step. Under some of the scree were crevices in the ice, which had to be carefully probed with trekking poles or else you would fall.

On the glacier at the top of the mountain, a dark natural ice cave was found, nearly ten metres high, with three layers and smooth, transparent walls of ghostly blue ice. When I later showed the photos to the Locals, they also found it very impressive.

From the glacier down is a long downhill stretching more than ten kilometres, if you do not have a good lunch and road meal, fatigue on the body and mind will be as tortured as this long downhill.

PART VI: THE EDGE OF CIVILISATION

As we approached the village, we met the official who had come on his rounds, and were surprised to hear that we had tumbled over from Sapugangri.

‘Do you want food? Do you need red bull? You must be careful, there are a lot of bears here.’

‘Thanks, I’ll take a couple of bottles of Red Bull, I might be able to use them.’

I looked at the iron gates of the villagers’ houses on the roadside, which were welded with metal spikes, this was probably their way of preventing bears from banging on the gates.

From Naruo you can go straight out of the wild, the landscape up to this point is all snow-covered wilderness, if you want to explore more valleys and more types of landscapes, you need to go over the Yingzui Pass at more than 5,400 metres, which is the toughest pass of the whole trip there.

After mid-September, the pass is covered in snow, there is no trail and every step is fraught with danger.

If you are as lucky as we were to get over the pass, the rest of the trip is sure to be a pleasant surprise.

Before our encounter with the bear, the mood was subdued, eight days of walking through barren, uninhabited terrain, and since the encounter with the bear at the top of the text, the landscape has started to change, forests have appeared, rushing rivers have appeared, the trees have become thicker and stronger, and more colours have started to appear, no longer a world of blues, whites, and greys.

There are times when we yearn for snowy mountains. But after staying for a long time, I still feel that an environment full of life is more suitable for human survival. Suddenly I remembered a beautiful young Tibetan girl I met in the mountains of Aba, Sichuan province, who told me unreservedly while milking a yak.

‘I don’t like it here at all, I want live in Chengdu.’

For the women living in the Nyingchi Tanggula mountain area, there would not be those thoughts of the Aba girl, who had been isolated for a long time and could not even communicate with us.

When we wanted to stay overnight, we could only ask the female members of the team to come up and say hello first. Because in this season, most of the people staying in the mountains are women. If I had asked alone, I would have likely been rejected and even scared them away.

After establishing initial trust, it was time to communicate with postures and gestures that people all over the world can understand, such as folding your hands and putting them by your ears to mean that you want to find a place where you can sleep.

Our last night in these mountains was spent in a house whose walls were plastered with yak dung. The houses in this village are heavily clad in chipped wood, presumably to protect against bears. It was strange to sleep against yak shit, but it didn’t leak and it was safe.

On the last day the trail got wider and drier, and as the altitude dropped, broadleaf forests appeared, as colourful as oil paintings. No, an oil painting wouldn’t hold this much colour, more than enough to overflow the frame. And if you want to paint the landscape of a few days ago, watercolour will suffice.

An aqueduct full of fish led us to Chizhu Village, where these fat fish crowded into the aqueduct that crossed the village and swam against the current, squeezing and crashing into each other, competing for the leaves and dirt that the old lady washerwoman casually threw into the water.

The Tibetans believe that eating fish is an unclean act, so fish are safe to survive here.

I noticed that most of the houses here were 3 storeys or more, Tibetan-style mansions built with pure wood, and the locals seemed to be very rich.

Our ‘strange clothes’ attracted the attention of the family and we were invited to the home by an old amah and young woman who kindly prepared yoghurt and some food for us. But we had nothing to share except photos and stories.

Nyenchingdong Sapu Trail Trekking Tips:

◇ This trail can be resupplied in the middle of the trail, resupply point 1 is at the Sapu Visitor Aid Centre on day 5, and resupply point 2 is at the village Naruo. You can buy instant noodles, milk tea, flour, vegetables, milk, cola and other simple food.

◇ You can get out of the trail in the middle, and the exit points are: the road on the southwest face of Sapu on the 2nd day, where you can stop the car; Sapu scenic spot on the 5th day; and Nayo on the 6th day. So this trail can also go only 5 or 6 days.

◇ Most of the pastoral cabin above 4500 metres above sea level are uninhabited after mid-September, so you can live in the house.

◇ As bears will be attracted by the smell, the kitchen and dining place should be 50-100 metres away from the tents when camping.

◇ The average altitude of the trail is about 5000 metres, and 3-5 days of plateau habituation training is required before entering the mountains.

◇ Some passes are snow coverd after mid-September and are likely to be impassable.

◇ Some water sources are poor, you must carry water purifier.

◇ This trail is very hard.

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Adventure Report: Langta Trek

3FULGEAR — Sun, 01 Sep 2019 11:10:21 +0000

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Adventure Report: Langta Trek

WHO: Yu Liu

WHEN: August 2019

DIFFICULTY: 7/10

WHERE: Xinjiang North Tianshan

LENGTH: 180km 10days

Langta is a 180km long high altitude trekking trail. It passes through the Northern Tianshan Mountains in Xinjiang and goes over 7 snowy mountain passes throughout. Langta Trek has an extremely high recognition in China and many hikers take pride in completing the trail.

The name Langta comes from the source of the Hutubi River, He Yuan Peak (5,290 metres above sea level), which in the local Kazakh language is known as Land, meaning vast pastureland. Langta means ‘tower mountain guarded by wolves’, and this name is the name of the highest peak in the region, Heyuan Peak, by the Kazakh herders. The Langta Trek was the shortest way to reach Balentai in the south when transport was less developed.

I’ve completed this trail several times, 2013, 2018 and 2019 respectively. A photo was taken at 2013 and was liked by many hiker.

DAY1 15km Coal mine – Kalamoyinake-grassland below Baiyanggou Pass

It takes half a day to reach the start of the trek from Urumqi city, passing through 1 registration station to record the time and number of people entering the mountain.

The Baiyanggou valley is hidden behind a coal mine. The coal mine here burned underground several years ago and you can still see the flames coming out of the ground.

The valley is very deep and requires a hike of at least 15 kilometres before you can see the high mountains that you will have to go over tomorrow.

DAY2 18km Baiyanggou Pass 3850-Taipuxima Valley Camp

As we made our way up the valley, we could see the glacier on the north side, and climbing 1000 metres upwards along a path to the east of the glacier, we reached the pass just before 3pm. After crossing this pass, the Langta’t Trek tour starts.

The descent was long and most people arrived in the valley in the dark. There is a herdsman’s house here and there is an option to camp here. If it is early, there are several other campsites in the valley.

DAY3 18km Taipuxima Valley-One Tree Camp

Today we descend to the Taipuxima Valley at an altitude of 2400 metres from where we enter the heart of Langta, the main tributary of the upper Hutubi River, the valley is narrow and deep, with fast flowing water and dense jungle on both sides of the river, keeping it in its natural and pristine condition.

The valley is very steep, but it is possible to walk on trails that have been cut into the cliffs. This was designed by the ancient people for easy access. The path is about 1 metre wide and can pass a horse, so walking is even less of a problem.

There were no mountain passes to cross today, but the raging Taipuxima River needed to be crossed, and I carried ropes to make the crossing safe.

DAY4 19km Kuleateteng Pass 3550m- Ertelanta Valley- Alpine pasture

From the campsite there is a narrow valley to the south that climbs 1000 metres up the stream to reach the pass. It was very physically exhausting and it was midday when we arrived at the pass.

The descent was good, with gentle southern slopes and a beautiful open valley with meadows full of flowers and butterflies in mid-August. I was tempted to give this valley a name: Butterfly Valley.

The Ertelanta river valley is wide, with broadleaf trees growing sparsely in the flat meadows in the valley. It was a beautiful afternoon.

The campsite was near a temporary herdsmen’s tent, and we purchased a sheep from the herdsmen, who helped us make a delicious mutton soup.

DAY5 16km Mengtekaizeng Pass3 950m- Kalagayite Pass 3760m-Haergatengguole Valley Camp

Until a few years ago, Mengtekaizeng Pass was piled up with snow and glaciers, but now, due to global warming, the snow and glaciers have melted at the top, leaking out black rocks.

We followed the trail carefully through the glacier and the pass, cutting across to another pass along the south-facing ridge. I remembered that it was often windy and rainy here, so it was best to pass quickly.

Descending at least 500 metres after passing 2 passes we could reach an abandoned house and we chose to camp near it.

DAY6 16km River Valley-Store-Wulan Pass 3380m-Yunza Camp

There was only one river crossing today, and it was half a day at a time.

We spent the first half of the trip pretty much soaking in water. The water temperature was just under 10 degrees centigrade. This made us have to take several breaks to return our body temperature.

Luckily it was a sunny day, it’s hard to imagine how hard it would have been without the sun.

Five hours away from the campsite we reached a shop, a temporary camp for herders who had started a business selling coke and beer because of the iron ore mine nearby. It’s a good supply point for some food.

We didn’t stay long at the shop and opted to go to the less populated Yunza for the night.

DAY7 21km Yunza-Xiare Pass 3150m-Green Lake

It was a tough day, unlike the previous days when the mountains were soaring, from today onwards the mountains started to flatten out tremendously, which meant that we needed to walk a lot more. There were many rivers and swamps to cross on the way to reach the Green Lake, which is a whopping 3,500 metres above sea level.

Green Lake is an ice bucket lake, but the glaciers on the far side of the mountain have disappeared and it now sits at the end of a large swamp. It is very wet and cold.

DAY8 15km Green Lake-Wulabutu Pass 4010m-Sanhetun Camp

To the left of Green Lake is the pass to be crossed, this pass is over 4,000 metres above sea level and is the highest point of the trek. However, it is only 500 metres from the campsite, so it is not very difficult. We were caught in a snowstorm here with visibility of only 20 metres or so, which made it difficult, and all the trails were covered in snow, so we had to rely entirely on our GPS to navigate the walk.

There was no fixed campsite today and we had only one rule, to walk as far as we could.

DAY9 25km Sanhetun-Tianger Pass 3750m- Camp

Today was the most intense day of the expedition. We had to walk for 4-5 hours to get to the foot of the mountain, the Tianger pass is very steep with a vertical height of 800 metres. It took us at least 3 hours to go over this pass, followed by a long descent. Again there was no fixed campsite today, we walked as far as we could and it was dark by the time most people found a proper place to camp, we were no exception.

DAY10 18km Qiaolengger Pass 2350m-Nongda forestry station

It was a long day of descending, with the alpine meadows fading away and the first to appear were the pines and then the broadleaf forests. The landscape changes from snow-capped mountains to forests. Then man-made structures. The journey passes a lot of abandoned military buildings, left over from the Cold War I guess. After all, it’s close to the Soviet Union.4

Summary:
Langta Trek is a very well-established hiking trail, but its difficulty cannot be ignored.

I tested two pieces of gear on this adventure:

1. a trekking pole tent made of SilNylon
This tent has only a Fly and no interior tent, but it was sufficient for me and it is only 420 grams. It is much more roomy than the Lanshan 1. SilNylon performed perfectly and was very strong.

2. Yue45 Backpack
This is the first test of the Yue45 rucksack before production and it performed very well.

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Hiking Report: ACT

3FULGEAR — Wed, 06 Dec 2017 06:50:00 +0000

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Adventure

Team member: Liu Yu, Guo

Time: September 2017

Length: 130km 10 days

Location: Nepal

Difficulty: 4/10

Nepal is not only rich in mountainous terrain, but it’s also a country with a uniquely culture. Whether you’re trekking beneath snowy peaks, scaling cliffs, wandering through rainforests, rafting in rapids, or getting lost in temple-filled alleyways, it won’t take long to understand why some explorers dedicate their entire lives to exploring this small country.

If you hold your beliefs somewhere high among snow-capped peaks, and see the outdoors as an inseparable part of life, then Nepal’s majestic mountains should be on your travel list.

And if you’re not good at sleeping in a damp tent, dreaming of a hot cup of coffee and a crispy slice of apple pie beneath the golden glow of sunrise on the Himalayas—then the Annapurna Circuit Trek (ACT) is absolutely your first choice..

The Enchanting Mountain Village of Tal

The Annapurna region offers numerous trekking routes, but the Annapurna Circuit stands out as the longest, most diverse in scenery, and richest in cultural experience. It may not offer the comfiest accommodations, but it far outshines the Everest Base Camp (EBC) trek in many ways. Compared to the more commercial Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) or the shorter Poon Hill trek, the ACT’s scenery is bound to leave you awestruck.

If the Everest region’s EBC is a snow-capped banquet, then the Annapurna Circuit is the full family-style combo meal, mixing breathtaking mountain views with deep cultural immersion.

The ACT around the 8,091-meter Annapurna in a horseshoe shape. The full route spans 211 kilometers (131 miles) and typically takes 16–21 days to complete. However, as roads now cover over 90% of the trail, many trekkers compress the journey into just 7–8 days.

The trail begins at the low-altitude town of Besisahar (820m) and ascend steadily to the Thorong La Pass (5,416m). This elevation gain brings dramatic changes in vegetation and terrain, keeping things visually fresh the entire way.

Along the route, you’ll pass through numerous ethnic regions—each with distinct architectural styles and cultural traditions.

In the southern, lower-altitude sections, Hinduism and Buddhism coexist. But as you ascend into the high alpine zones, the influence of Tibetan Buddhism becomes dominant. Some locals follow Nepalese Buddhism, while others follow traditional Tibetan practices.

High Altitudes Trail

A Non-Traditional Route Through Mesokanto La

Instead of the standard Thorong La Pass route, we opted for a variation—crossing the less-traveled Mesokanto La Pass. This offered a richer cultural experience through Manang and Khangsar, followed by two days of remote wilderness with no lodges in sight. The reward? Absolute solitude and stunning, raw mountain views.

Compared to Thorong La, Mesokanto La is on man’s land, without established lodges. Being closer to the snow peaks, the scenery is even more dramatic—but this route demands better gear and experience, as camping is required. It’s only accessible during a short window each year and bypasses several historic Tibetan villages. This pass is also the pass through which humans passed on their first attempt to explore Annapurna, where the expedition had to return after seeing the Great Barrier on the northeast of the Tilicho Peak.

Trip Itinerary Summary

Day 1: Kathmandu → Besisahar → Bhulbule
Day 2: Bhulbule → Ghermu
Day 3: Ghermu → Tal
Day 4: Tal → Timang
Day 5: Timang → Chame
Day 6: Chame → Upper Pisang
Day 7: Upper Pisang → Ngawal
Day 8: Ngawal → Manang
Day 9: Manang → Khangsar → mid-route lodge
Day 10: Mid-route lodge → Tilicho Base Camp → Tilicho Lake Camp
Day 11: Tilicho Lake → Mesokanto La Pass → 4600m Camp
Day 12: 4600m Camp → Jomsom
Day 13: Jomsom → Pokhara

Note: Days 10–12 follow a non-traditional, more difficult path and require camping gear. Not recommended for inexperienced trekkers.

Day 1: From Kathmandu to Besi Sahar
Travel time by bus: 6–8 hours

There are many ways to get from Kathmandu to the starting point of the trek. Most trekkers choose either a local bus or a tourist bus for foreigners. Both options are very cheap (about 400–450 rupees), but if you’re unlucky, you might end up on a bus in terrible condition, with long and unexpected delays. A smaller number of trekkers opt to hire a private car or take a 4WD vehicle, which is faster, but the cost is very high.

If you’re trying to strike a balance between time and budget, a mini bus is a good option—it costs around 500 rupees. Finding one is easy: just hop in a taxi and tell the driver you’re looking for a mini bus to Besi Sahar. The driver will take you straight to the bus. If you’re leaving from Thamel, the taxi ride will cost around 300 rupees.

On the bus, we met a Malaysian hiker Yikean, who was heading to Besi Sahar to meet up with a Spanish friend and hiking the ACT.

If all goes smoothly, you should reach Besi Sahar between 3:00 and 4:00 PM. From there, you can either hire a car to drive you directly into the ACT start point, or take a local bus to Bhulbule, where you’ll find lovely garden-style guesthouses perfect for a peaceful overnight stay. Don’t worry too much about the local bus conditions—Nepalis are warm and welcoming, and they won’t let you stand in the aisle getting tossed around on those mountain roads.

After a friendly conductor invited us aboard, my friend and I found ourselves riding alongside locals as the bus made three loops around the small town of Besi Sahar, picking up passengers. On this colorful, exotically decorated bus, people weren’t just sitting or standing—they were also clinging to the outside or riding on the roof! It’s the kind of wild, unforgettable experience you don’t often find elsewhere.

Just past Bhulbule, you’ll come across several garden-style lodges—it’s highly recommended to stay here. If you push on past that point, you might find yourself hiking well into the night before you reach the next lodging option, which could be a dark, damp place you’d rather avoid.

Unfortunately, that’s exactly what happened to us. Unaware of what lay ahead, we kept walking late into the night and finally stumbled upon a run-down shop in Ngadi, perched on a hillside. We ended up staying in a drafty, flimsy wooden shack with tropical insects crawling along the walls. To save on fuel, the owner had even removed the gas canister from the water heater.

The roaring Marsyangdi River, by the way, is also a popular white-water rafting destination.

Day 2: From Bhulbule to Ghermu
Hiking time: 6–7 hours

Today’s hike winds through hot, humid subtropical forest almost the entire way. After a bit of elevation gain, we reached Bahundanda (1,270m), a small village perched on the hillside. Its name means “Hill of the Brahmins.”

Bahundanda has a few small shops where you can rest for a while. There’s a little town square with an ancient tree at its center. When we arrived, the locals were gathered around, cheerfully sending off an elderly trekker with a full head of white hair.

There’s also a police checkpoint here where you must register your trekking permit. Don’t skip this step—it’s important for your safety. Some of the nearby shops sell fruit, including homegrown guavas and a thick, stubby variety of banana. Because they ripen on the tree, these fruits taste far better than anything you’d find at a market—highly recommended!

After leaving Bahundanda, the trail descends for a stretch before starting to ascend again at a gentle pace. When you spot a massive waterfall cascading down the left side of the valley, you’ll know you’ve almost reached Ghermu (1,140m), your destination for the night. This area is absolutely beautiful. The guesthouses are built on the right side of the valley, and you can enjoy a clear view of the huge waterfall straight from your window.

The youngest hiker on the trail—just six years old

Day 3: From Ghermu to Tal
Hiking time: 6–7 hours
Elevation gain: +640m

Not long after leaving Ghermu, we crossed a suspension bridge that took us from the eastern to the western bank of the Marsyangdi River. On the opposite side sits the aging village of Jagat, home to a few lodges. For those who took a vehicle into the trail, this is often their first overnight stop.

From here, the trail follows a road for quite a long stretch. Eventually, you’ll see a large boulder painted with red and white trail markers—this is where you leave the road and begin climbing a steep slope on the left.

After passing through a dense forest, we arrived at Chamje (1,410m), a village located right across from a waterfall. In fact, we ended up staying here for the night. Lodging was basic and a bit rough, but the place was packed with trekkers from all over the world. It was here that I had the worst daal bhaat on the entire Annapurna Circuit. A Canadian couple sitting across from us had ordered the same dish—I still remember the look on their faces.

*Daal bhaat is a traditional Nepali meal that usually includes lentil soup, rice, curry, fried bread, and pickles. It’s the least wrong dish on the ACT, and most restaurants do a great job with it.

The Malaysian hiker we met earlier also stayed here. Their group was on a tight schedule, so they were likely to leave us in the dust before long.

Not far from Chamje, we crossed another suspension bridge to the right side of the gorge. After a rather uneventful stretch, we reached a broad, flat valley. This flatness comes from the fact that it was once the bottom of a lake. Nestled on the eastern side of the river is a beautiful little village called Tal (1,700m).

As soon as we arrived in Tal, we couldn’t take another step—we decided to stay. This village is incredibly charming, it’s the most beautiful place along the entire trek. A nearby waterfall provides water for the village. To reach it, you cross a small bridge and follow a steep stone staircase up to its middle section.

The village has rows of cozy wooden cabins available for just 200 rupees per room—an unbelievable bargain, especially compared to prices in Manang, where similar rooms can go for over 1,000. Every lodge has a grassy yard full of wildflowers, and if you not in hurry, I’d highly recommend spending a half-day here to rest and soak it all in.

Tal also offers good resupply options—you can find both trekking gear and everyday necessities. There’s even a safe water refill station where you can buy filtered water for 40 rupees per liter.

The garden village of Tal

We stayed at a place called Sunrise Guest House, run by a young and friendly woman. Her husband was out in the garden building furniture and fixing up a new room. Best of all? We had the most delicious daal bhaat and grilled chicken of the entire trek right here.

Day 4: From Tal to Timang
Hiking time: 5–6 hours
Elevation gain: +1,000m

Leaving Tal, we passed a few garden-style lodges before out of the river valley. Less than an hour in, we crossed a suspension bridge to switch from the east bank of the river to the west. From there, the trail followed a jeep track almost the entire way.

The scenery along this road was relatively unremarkable, but we passed through several small villages. Dharapani(1,960m) is a good place to stop for lunch. It’s a common hub for trekkers—especially those hiking the Manaslu Circuit, many of whom overnight here.

In Dharapani, a guesthouse owner playing with his child in the yard. There’s also a checkpoint here where you must register. One of the staff recommended a side trip to Odar, a nearby village with views of Mount Manaslu. Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to detour that way.。

After passing through Danaque (2,210m), we faced a steep climb. The elevation gain here is nearly 500 meters, and it’s a tough section—most of it through rhododendron forest. Eventually, we crossed another suspension bridge and arrived at our final destination for the day: Timang (2,630m).

Very few people choose to spend the night in Timang, but I did—and for good reason. It’s an incredible viewpoint. If you wake up early, you’ll be rewarded with a breathtaking view of Manaslu bathed in golden morning light.

Day 5: From Timang to Chame
Hiking time: 3–4 hours
Elevation gain: +200m
Today’s hike was pleasantly short—perfect for sleeping in a bit. Still, if you’re in Timang, don’t miss the sunrise over Manaslu—it’s absolutely worth waking up for.

Along the way, we passed through two small villages: Thanchowk and Koto. There’s no real need to stop for lunch in either; it’s better to continue straight through to Chame (2,710m) and eat there. As we approached Chame, the trees parted just enough to reveal a jaw-dropping glimpse of Annapurna II (7,937m) rising in the distance.

Chame is the district capital of the Manang region, and it feels like a proper town. There’s a hospital, a pharmacy, outdoor gear shops, a police station, a monastery, a bank, and even a hot spring. The road here is so well-developed that if someone really wanted to skip the walk, they could technically hire a vehicle from the trailhead all the way to Chame. The mobile signal is not bad throughout the town—one of the few spots on the trail where you can browse the internet at decent speeds.

There are tons of guesthouses here. It’s worth walking a bit farther into town, where many of the newer lodges offer better rooms and tastier meals. After dinner, be sure to take advantage of the free natural hot spring—you won’t have many chances to bathe in the coming days, so make it count.

That evening, the skies cleared after a brief rain. From the rooftop of our lodge, we watched the golden light of sunset paint the face of Manaslu—an unforgettable moment.

Day 6: From Chame to Upper Pisang
Hiking time: 5 hours
Elevation gain: +600m

From today onward, the landscape begins to change dramatically. Alpine conifer forests gradually replace the lush broadleaf trees, and the vibrant green hills give way to towering mountains in hues of white and ochre. Leaving Chame, we officially step into the high-altitude realm of the Himalayas. Even the architecture starts to shift toward a more traditional mountain style.

On the trail, we passed a young girl selling fresh apples to trekkers—a charming little reminder of how life continues in these remote villages.

Bhratang makes for a good lunch stop. It’s home to large apple orchards, and you can buy fresh apples, apple juice, and even a slice of apple pie. The apples here are small, bright red, and noticeably tart—very different from the ones back home.

The trail follows the right bank of the Marsyangdi River, carving its way along a rocky cliff path hewn from giant boulders. At a suspension bridge, we left the road and crossed to the left side of the valley, where the scenery takes a dramatic turn. This is where you’ll see the mighty Paungda Danda—a colossal slab of rock that rises nearly 1,500 meters in a single sweep. Locals call it Swarga Dwar, the “Gate to Heaven.” According to tradition, souls of the deceased must cross over this wall of stone to reach paradise.

Honestly, it’s easy to see why they believe that. As the trail bends around the curve of this so-called gate, the forest begins to thin, and what appears ahead is a breathtaking panorama of snow-capped peaks—it truly feels like entering another world. This is a feature of Tibetan Buddhism that combines natural wonders with religion.

In the past, most trekkers stayed in Lower Pisang (3,240m), but in recent years the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) has redirected the official route to Upper Pisang (3,310m), perched higher up on the mountainside. The scenery from here is far superior to that of the valley floor, with sweeping views of the surrounding peaks.

Upper Pisang is a traditional Tibetan-style village, and while the lodging is basic—there’s often no running water, frequent power outages, and tight accommodation—nearly every trekker opts to stay here for one very good reason: it offers one of the best sunrise views of Annapurna II on the entire circuit.

A hiker meditating before the snow-capped peaks

Day 7: Upper Pisang to Ngawal
Hiking time: 6 hours
Elevation gain: +500m, loss: -200m

Today’s trail follows the right side of the valley, almost entirely along a cliffside pathway. Before reaching the traditional Tibetan village of Ghyaru (3,670m), we encounter a steep ascent. At the entrance to the village stands a white stupasurrounded by prayer flags, creating a serene and sacred atmosphere beneath the snow-capped peaks.

In the early morning, we observed the guesthouse owner creating a totem out of colorful dough. It is said to be for a religious ritual, adding an extra layer of local culture and mysticism to our experience.

Given the relentless exposure to the sun today, make sure to carry enough water, as there are very few places to refill along the way.

The views along the way are spectacular, especially of Annapurna II and Annapurna III. At one bend in the trail, I managed to capture a photo of this awe-inspiring landscape.

Fearing the accommodation shortage that we had experienced in Upper Pisang, we decided to “settle” in the first guesthouse we found upon reaching Ngawal (3,660m). The drafty wooden shack creaked and groaned in the gusty winds that howled through the night, but we were fortunate to meet many interesting people: a Canadian couple traveling the world and two French uncles who were skilled in singing and storytelling.

The Canadian couple had suffered from altitude sickness, but thankfully they had brought Acetazolamide from lower down. One of the French uncles, an old hippie type, never forgot his guitar, strumming and singing along as he hiked. The other French uncle, who spoke excellent Chinese, turned out to be a university lecturer in China. Together, we gathered firewood from the yard and lit the stove in the guesthouse’s living room. Soon, the warmth from the fire filled the small cabin, offering a stark contrast to the bitter cold winds that came down from the mountains.

Day 8: Ngawal to Manang

Hiking time: 4-5 hours
Elevation gain: +100m, loss: -200m

Leaving Ngawal, the trail descends to the old main trail on the road to Lower Pisang, where dust clouds swirl around us, which is no surprise since this section has been downgraded to a secondary route.

Before reaching the road, we pass through sparse forests and shrubland. The blue Marsyangdi River slices through the yellow mountain valley, and from above, the view is expansive and wide-open.

This part of road has almost no small shops or guesthouses, so be sure to pack a lunch and carry plenty of water.

Before entering Manang, we pass through a small town called Bragha, home to the famous Bragha Gompa, a Tibetan Buddhist monastery that is over 500 years old.

It’s said that Yak Burgers in Bragha are delicious. Since this dish isn’t on the ACAP menu, the price tends to be quite high. Another item available in the shops is a concentrated sea buckthorn juice, which is incredibly refreshing. During peak season, accommodation in Manang is in high demand and tends to be expensive. It’s worth considering staying in Bragha if you want to avoid the crowds.

Bragha Gompa

Manang (3,540m) is a commercial center in the region, with numerous small supermarkets, outdoor shops, pharmacies, a police station, an airport, and even a cinema that specializes in showing mountaineering films.

While searching for a place to stay in the crowded town of Manang, we ran into the Canadian couple again. They had booked a guesthouse for 800 rupees. If you find prices at the town entrance too high, consider walking further in, where the rates drop considerably. Eventually, we found a 200 rupee room with a beautiful view.

Most trekkers take a rest day in Manang to acclimatize to the altitude. However, since we had been trekking at a comfortable pace, we felt great and decided to skip the rest day. We made the decision to head out the following day for Tilicho Lake.

Tilicho Lake is the most famous side trip on the Annapurna Circuit, known for being the world’s highest lake, and for its stunning views of the Great Barrier snow peaks.

Day 9—Day 10: Manang to Tilicho Lake Base Camp
Hiking time: 10-12 hours
Elevation gain: +1600m

Leaving Manang, head northwest following the blue and white markers that guide you to the Tilicho Lake side trail. The path is generally okay, but there are some areas prone to landslides, which can be dangerous. The elevation gain is significant, so many trekkers choose to stop and stay in a guesthouse along the way.

Khangsar is the only village between Manang and Tilicho Lake, but it’s not the only place with guesthouses. After passing through this traditional stone village, you’ll continue for about 2 hours to reach Shree Kharka (4,045m), which has two guesthouses. Another small and less comfortable guesthouse is about 20 minutes further. During our stay, the owner’s child was ill, and they practiced a form of shamanic healing to treat the child.

Looking out from the Base Camp restaurant

Tilicho Lake Base Camp is located at an elevation of 4,140m. We had a meal at the Tilicho Base Camp Hotel, but prices were high, and both charging and Wi-Fi came with extra fees. The cost for a basic room was 1,000 rupees. If you’re just going to visit the lake, it’s best to leave your luggage at the restaurant and go lightly. I would not recommend staying here, as there is no electricity, no stove, and the long, cold nights are rather dull.

Approaching Tilicho Lake

Mist over Tilicho Lake

I asked several guides for advice about my plans, but they couldn’t offer much reliable guidance since most hadn’t trekked through the Mesokanto La Pass area. The only suggestion they gave was to take the northern pass, as it would be less icy.

From the base camp to the lake, there is an 870-meter ascent, which is quite steep and dangerous, with switchbacks along the rocky slopes. It’s best to avoid this route if it’s rainy.

The lake, at an elevation of 4,920 meters, has crystal-clear water. On calm days, you can see the majestic snow peaks reflected in the water. However, most of the time, the cold winds make it difficult to enjoy the views. During peak season, from November to March, the surface of the lake is covered in ice and snow.

There are several campsites around Tilicho Lake, and most commercial expedition companies set up their camps on the north side of the lake, by a river, for easier access to water and better wind protection. We set up our tent beside a Tea House on the lake’s edge. It was sheltered from the wind, and the view was stunning. However, only 2-3 tents can fit in this spot.

At night, clouds and mist rolled over the lake, and temperatures dropped to below -10°C. Our ICEFLAME ultralight sleeping bags, which had just 520g and 640g of down insulation, weren’t enough on their own, but by stuffing them with clothes and wearing down jackets and pants, we managed to stay warm through the night.

Day 11: Tilicho Lake to 4600m Campsite
Hiking time: 8-9 hours
Elevation gain: +400m / Elevation loss: -700m

The morning sunlight illuminated the Great Barrier, and the warming rays triggered loud avalanches, with massive chunks of ice crashing into the lake, disturbing the once-calm mirror-like surface.

We packed up our frost-covered tent in the cold wind and continued along the trail to the right side of the lake, steadily climbing until we reached a barren high plateau. Here, we encountered the only hiker on the route, from California who was hiking in the opposite direction. We exchanged information about the trail and water sources.

There are fewer trail markers here, so it’s important to have a pre-planned route and strategy. Without proper preparation, it’s not advisable to proceed. The Mesokanto La Pass is not a single pass, but rather a region with three possible passes: two southern passes (5,250m) and one northern pass (4,540m), with the northern pass being the gentler one, also called the Tourist Pass.

Mesokanto La Pass

Regardless of which pass you choose, one common issue is the need for camping. The campsites are all above 4,500m, and the valleys after crossing the pass—Kaili Gandaki and Lungpuhyun—are the “Valleys of Wind.” You’ll need reliable camping gear to withstand the strong winds and cold temperatures at high altitudes.

Driven by curiosity, we chose to take the steep southern pass. Fortunately, there was no snow, and the difficulty wasn’t as great as we had imagined. In fact, many trails in China are similarly steep.

The 4600m campsite showed clear signs of human construction. If you move quickly, you can continue to the abandoned yak herder’s camp ahead, which is more sheltered and at a lower, warmer altitude.

Day 12: 4600m Campsite to Jomsom
Hiking time: 8-9 hours
Elevation loss: -2000m

Today, we will follow the trail along the right side of the valley, descending all the way. This section offers the best scenery of the entire Annapurna Circuit. Snow-capped mountains, forests, lakes, and wilderness—everything you could ask for. If you hike this route after November, the snow-capped mountain views will be even more stunning, but the difficulty will also increase.

After crossing the pass, the trail markers turn to red and white, but it is still a side trail. There are no large groups of trekkers, no villages, and no guesthouses—just pristine natural beauty.

If time and supplies allow, this section of the trail can be taken slowly, allowing you to stop for more photos and enjoy the mountain views. However, we were craving the roasted chicken down in the valley, so we decided to push on to Jomsom today.

Along the way, there are only 1-2 water sources, so be sure to bring enough water when you set out in the morning.

By the time we descended, it was dark. The dim lights of the old town in Jomsom were a bit disappointing. We crossed a narrow iron bridge, and the sign at the entrance read, “Don’t fight on the bridge.”

The guards at the temple entrance wore submachine guns across their chests but didn’t even glance at us. Foreigners here are more numerous than yaks.

The new town is about 1 km south of the old town, across the river. It’s busy with neon lights, upscale bars, and hotels, where the noise and chaos of the city seem to clash with the dust-covered streets. We began to miss the humble guesthouses on the other side of the pass, where trekkers would gather in warm dining rooms to chat or quietly read.

Day 13: Jomsom to Pokhara
Jomsom Road is a culturally rich tourist route. Mustang is a holy site in Tibetan Buddhism, and foreign tourists are very curious about it. This is the essential route to Mustang, and also a transit point for tourists.

Every day, numerous buses depart for Pokhara, with tickets costing about 1250 NPR. However, I strongly recommend flying, as it costs around 70-100usd. The road out of the mountains is prone to traffic jams and accidents, and these buses, which regularly travel on difficult roads, are also highly prone to mechanical failure. Some people pay high prices to hire off-road vehicles, but I do not recommend this approach. These vehicles are much bumpier than buses, and if there’s a traffic jam, they won’t be able to avoid it either.

Accident scene with a casual atmosphere, indicating how frequent such incidents are.

Local passengers squeezed in a small shop, drinking tea and chatting, with a very harmonious atmosphere.

Unfortunately, we were unlucky—our bus broke down, and we spent 3 hours waiting in a dimly lit shop with the locals while it was being repaired. Later, we shared a ride in an off-road vehicle with several European trekkers, which also broke down on the way. We eventually flagged down a bus on the road and ended up sitting in the aisle until we got to Pokhara, where we didn’t get off until past 1 AM.

The bus stop was in the old town. Two trekkers, unhappy with the local taxi drivers’ exorbitant prices, said “We are trekkers,” and resolutely walked to the lakeside area in search of accommodation. The two of us, along with two French tourists, were concerned about safety at night, so we shared a ride and found a garden hotel called Blue Planet.

Pokhara is a paradise for outdoor activities like paragliding, rafting, and mountain biking. However, after more than ten days of trekking, I only wanted to do one thing: eat.

Moon Dance Restaurant is one of the most popular Western restaurants in Pokhara, and it’s very busy, with window-side seats requiring a reservation. The AoZoRa Japanese restaurant offers delicious teriyaki chicken rice, Far West Hunanserves tasty meat sandwiches, and the best recommendation is Sanchon Korean Food—though the menu is limited, the flavors are truly amazing.

Rafting is a must-do for almost every tourist. If you have time, I strongly recommend. There are Class 2–Class 4 rapids to choose from, with the higher levels being more fun.

Additional Note

We skipped the section of the route from Jomsom to Naya Pul due to time constraints. This is the traditional end point of the Annapurna Circuit. The winding mountain road follows the Kali Gandaki River Valley south, with very few trekkers along the way, likely due to the road being open to vehicles. If you have time, I recommend taking this route for a more peaceful experience and a chance to visit Poon Hill for the spectacular views of Machapuchare.

Equipment

For this trek, I used the 3FULGEAR Lanshan 2 tent, an ICEFLAME sleeping bag, and a test backpack. The backpack featured an inflatable back system, but the experiment had negative results as the inflatable frame couldn’t provide long-term support. Therefore, this model was not mass-produced.

Trekking Tips

Permits:
To trek the Annapurna Circuit (ACT), you need two permits: the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) Permit and the Trekkers’ Information Management System (TIMS) Card. These permits can be obtained at the Nepal Tourism Board in Kathmandu (closed on Sundays). The total cost is around 250 NPR. You just need to bring your passport and cash, and photos will be taken on-site for free.

Accommodation:
You can stay in lodges throughout the trek without the need for camping. However, if you plan to go through the Mesokanto La Pass, you must camp for two days. Before Jomsom, accommodation prices range from 10 to 30 NPR for a twin-bed room, but you must eat at the lodge where you’re staying.

Transportation:
The best way to find public buses is to ask a taxi driver. They will take you directly to the bus station, which is the most economical option. There is no need to go through a travel agency or lodge to find transportation.

Food:
A single meal typically costs between 30-50 NPR, with a menu that includes Western, Nepali, and Tibetan dishes. The menu along the route is standardized and regulated by ACAP, so the prices are controlled and generally correlate with altitude. You won’t find meals that are too expensive or too cheap. Food at lodges tends to be more expensive, while tea houses offer cheaper options. For lunch, I recommend eating at a tea house.

Water:
Most lodges offer boiled water for sale. In some towns, you can buy purified water at water stations, or you can buy bottle water at shops. However, all three options are relatively expensive, so it’s advisable to bring a water purifier and outdoor stove.

Water Stations:
The following towns have water stations: Tal, Bagarchhap, Chame, Pisang, Hongde, Manang, Letdar, Thorung Phedi, Muktinath, Kagbeni, Jomsom, Marpha, Tukuche, Khobang, Larjung, Lete, and Ghasa. The price is 40-60 NPR per liter, and if you don’t have a water purifier, this is the most economical way to get drinking water.

Medical:
Along the route, at least four towns have pharmacies and hospitals. Doctors can communicate in English.

Resupply:
You will pass a lodge or small shop every two hours on average.

Charging:
Most lodges along the route provide charging services. The majority of them offer free charging, but a few may charge a fee. During peak season, power outlets can be scarce, and there may be occasional power outages. I solved this issue by using an ultra-light solar panel.

Internet:
Though most lodges advertise free Wi-Fi, but poor speed. In major towns like Manang, Chame, and Jomsom, the internet is faster, and there’s usually a mobile network signal.

Porters and Guides:
Porters and guides are not mandatory. Most trekkers do not hire a guide or porter. However, if you hire a local guide, lodging costs may increase significantly. Hiring a guide or porter provides local employment and supports a family’s livelihood for up to six months.

Trail Markers:
ACAP marks the main trail with red and white markers and the side trails with blue and white markers.

The post Hiking Report: ACT first appeared on 3F UL GEAR Ultralight Outdoor Gears.

Adventure - 3F UL GEAR Ultralight Outdoor Gears

The No Man’s Wilderness : White Lake Loop in Altai Mountains.

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Adventure

Team member: Liu Yu, Zi Long, Jun Dao, Kuai Le, Cha Ye

Time: October 2016

Length: 250km 14 days

Location: Altai Mountains

Difficulty: 8.5/10

5. Breaking Out of the Wilderness

Adventure Report: Everest East Face and Kama Valley

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Adventure

Team member: Liu Yu, Mingyue, Jundao, Ruguo,Tusheng, etc.

Time: August 2014

Length: 140km 10 days

Location: Tibet

Difficulty: 5.5/10

Adventure Report:

Adventure Report: Aotai Trek

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Adventure

WHO: Yu Liu, Liang XueYan, Jumper(JiangPu/Li Tao)

WHEN: July 2019

LENGTH: 80km 4days

WHERE: Qinling Mountain, Shanxi

DIFFICULTY: 5.5/10

DAY1 TaibaiMountain(3771m)-Dongyuan(3174m)

DAY2 Dongyuan(3174m)-Xiyuan(3200m)-3 pyramid shaped peak-3200camp

DAY3 3200camp-2800camp-Shuiwozi(3100m)

DAY4 Shuiwozi-Aoshan（3500m）-Niangniangtai（2900m）-Road（2000m）

Adventure Report: North of the Southern Tian Shan Trek

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Team member: Liang Xueyan, Liu Yu, Liu Yinxi, Chen Xiaofen, Yan Nan, Psnake, XiaoLongNv

Time: August 2024

Length: 85km 6 days

Location: Xinjiang

Difficulty: 7.5/10

Lack of sufficient information makes this route full of uncertainty.

What we do know is that the route involves climbing at least 2 snowy mountain passes with large glaciers, so some mountaineering tools are needed.

This is beyond the scope of a trekking route, and the extra mountaineering tools add weight, moreover making lightweight gear especially important.

I also tested the Extra Quilt EX zip from ICEFLAME, filled with 420g of 900FP down and weighing just 600g.

You can download my gear list at the link below.

https://lighterpack.com/r/lepu6f

Adventure Report:

DAY1 16km Solan Valley-Camp 1

Ascend: 1380m

The first day’s altitude will not exceed 3000 metres. Most of the time is spent walking in valleys and ridge meadows with views of snow-capped mountains in the distance. The paths are in good condition.

DAY2 16km Camp1-Malaerte Pass 3562m- Cabin

Ascend: 785m

DAY3 14km Cabin- Valley crossing- Grass land before Asusada Pass 3600m

Ascend: 850m

Needed to cross a fast flowing river today and needed to build a protection system with ropes. This will delay a lot of time.

The way up towards the valley above is becoming less and less obvious and a lot of time is consumed determining whether the way is to the left or right of the river. This is very energy and time consuming. If the judgement is wrong, danger can be encountered.

There is a grassy area and clear water source high up a few hundred metres from the pass, making it an ideal campsite.

In the evening a member of the team had an acute attack of ITBS, a condition that causes rapid loss of movement. My treatment was to administer 0.75mg dexamethasone every 4 hours. Knowing that the acute oedema was gone.

DAY4 15.6km Asusada Pass 3880m-Small Lake-Glacier-Kirin Pass 3800m-Grass Camp

Ascend: 750m

Starting today off the trail, all future hikes are off-trail.

Over the 3880 metre scree pass, you can see the snow-capped mountains to be climbed in the distance. This day will lead into a glacier trek.

The glacier walk started at 3pm and it was easy compared to the scree slopes and we soon reached the Kirin I pass, that is dangerous because of an ice slope of about 45 degrees, which requires the correct use of ice crampons in order to pass through, otherwise you may fall into the ice lake below.

Kirin II is a scree pass with no glacier or trail and requires going over countless rocks. This pass is the second most dangerous pass of the trip.

The campsite is at least an hour from Kirin II Pass.

DAY5 17.8 km Grass camp- Glacier-Elemente Pass I 4100m-Elemente Pass II-Camp

Ascend: 821m

Almost all of the day was spent marching on the glacier, there was about an hour’s sharp descent from the campsite to the glacier valley, there were no trail and it was difficult to walk through the bush.

There are several kilometres of walking on the glacier, and the area close to the pass is full of ice cracks, so walking in groups is required. Over Pass 1 there is a sharply descending ice slope that requires the use of ice axes.

Most people will burn through all their energy to get over these two passes.

But it’s not over yet, next you’ll be doing kilometres of glacier walking and need to bypass many ice crevasses.

Arriving at camp is late.

DAY6 7.6km Leave the Trek.

Today we dried all our gears as we have been getting wet almost every day for the past few days. It only takes 3 hours to leave the trail. We arrived at a construction site where a tunnel is being built through the Tianshan mountains and glacier.

The staff said the tunnel is 16 kilometres long and could be completed by 2029. This means saving at least one to two days of driving to southern Xinjiang.

Summary:

This is a risky and difficult expedition that is not for new hikers as it is lack of detailed information and has no trails.Mountaineering tools are a must and can greatly reduce the danger.

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Adventure Report: NyenchingTanggula Sapu Mont Trek

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Adventure

This is a risky and difficult expedition that is not for new hikers as it is lack of detailed information and has no trails.
Mountaineering tools are a must and can greatly reduce the danger.